Climber's Cretan Experience.

by Columba McLaughlin Friday, October 27, 2000.

Columba McLaughlin 21st September 2000 The Samaria Gorge [Photo of Samaria Gorge] - Crete It was 32 degrees Celsius in the shade and as she stood at 1025m on the Omalós Plateau, Deirdre said 'You promised me Sun, Sand and a Flat beach'. Then she gazed up at the remaining 1055m of Mount Gíngilos (2080m). My only defence was '2 out of 3 ain't bad'.
Deirdre and I were in Crete for a short vacation. The McGuigan Clan came here in April [Report from McGuigans in Crete] and climbed Mount Gíngilos but entrance to the Samaria Gorge [Another photo of Samaria Gorge] was denied. At 18Km in length, it is the longest gorge in Europe, so Deirdre and I (along with hundreds of others) went down into it. The initial 4Km of the descent is very steep and a bit like the Devil's ladder on Corrán Tuatháil or the Great Stone Chute on Muckish but with steps cut out for you. Do not trip or hold on to the wobbly wooden supports. By the way you have to pay for the privilege of visiting the gorge [Yet another photo of Samaria Gorge]. However, the scenery is absolutely brilliant. If you expect to get away from the maddening crowds, forget it. There were more people swarming down these steps and over the boulder-strewn path than there are flies on a fresh cowpat. We were told that if we had an accident, the rescue team would lift us out. No, not by Air Ambulance - but a 'Donkey Ambulance'. I said to Deirdre after watching a poor embarrassed soul being heaved up onto the donkey's back, 'remind me not to trip'.

Anyway, the scenery was stunning with a few flat bits but mostly with very steep and bouldery and very high walls on either side. The trail is easy to follow as it goes along and frequently crosses the terminal moraines of the glacier that carved it. You are only allowed to eat, drink, smoke and toilet in designated areas. In the remains of the Samaria Village, the ladies have to pay to use the WC (prepare your self for this experience). Doing any of these things in the wild or behind a bush will incur the wrath of the patrolling guards. There are some brilliant long multi-pitch climbs on all sides. However, camping is barred, so it would be in and out like a fiddler's elbow. The gorge is very narrow in places and during the winter a torrent gushes [Torrent Gushing in Samaria Gorge] down through it. It is only open from May to October each year as flash floods are common at other times. At the end of the gorge it is only 3 metres wide, with 900ft walls. The best about exiting the gorge is that it is via the sea. So Deirdre and I went straight to the beach and jumped in. Brilliant. Next stop the local pub, some Greek grub and a lie in the sun until the 6pm boat. This took us from Ayía Rouméli to the port of Hóra Sfakíon and then back to Malia by bus and a beach party till dawn. A brilliant day.

Adhío ét kalí andhámosi, Columba