Reports From DB

All in all, a very inauspicious day's climbing.

I led Orange Blossom and then passed the harness to Frankie, who led Diversion. Peter did Grecian Gift and then Frankie squeezed in Peapod before it got dark.

All the old favourites done, it stayed dry and we had a great night. No photo, though, sorry.

Geoff Thomas arrived as we changed and he joined Sally and me as we walked over to the crags to start climbing. Unfortunately, the tide was in and we had a bit of a palaver getting to the routes, but eventually we climbed (in perfect, hot sunshine) Ghostie, Jaws, Rockhopper and a possible new route near My Fair Lady (led by Geoff at about VS).

On return to the campsite we found Donna and Marty Ryan (and family) and Mark and Colleen McGuigan. On the way home we passed Geoff's wife Helen, but only recognised her at the last minute, so couldn't wave...so here's a wave for Helen....Cooooeeee!

We climbed Hustler HS, Cap Gun Corner Sev, Expertise Sev and Broadbinn's Emporium Sev. Then the rain got a bit heavier so we retired for the night.

Eoin didn't look too enthusiastic, but ended the night asking for another trip, so maybe he'll be the latest recruit for the Colmcille ranks.

Please send flowers to "_Psyke, Annagary, Donegal"

Someone suggested that Muckish would be nice and dry after all the beautiful May weather, so Bill, Alan, Margaret and I met at the lay-by straight from the office and beetled off in Alan's Land Rover to find some sport. We picked up Mikey McGinty in Letterkenny and headed north (away from the threatening clouds in the west). Luckily, Muckish was still resplendent in spring sunshine, so we picked our way up the miners' path with light hearts.

Having suffered a bit of a ribbing in the car due to my (fabricated) reluctance to lead, I was stung into an optimistic bravado and decided to climb Thera HVS (see pic of a previous ascent). This was not entirely stupid because I figured, rightly, that the deep crack would eat gear and that my life would not be in much danger. Good job too, because I took two rests. In spite of my iffy tactics, the route offered quite a challenge and some great moves - worth all 3 stars.

Bill and Alan were on An Phoucha VS while this was going on. They followed that with a top-roped ascent of Thera before shooting off to do another 4 routes.

Mikey and I made a couple of poor calls: we tried and failed on HMS Wasp VS, leaving gear half way up (later retrieved on abseil) and backtracked on a mingy, muddy, grassy Winklepicker. Mikey did lead The Wizard VS, good value for a short route - some nice moves near the top.

As the light faded we made the steep descent back to the car to join Mags and go for a quick beer in Letterkenny. Another brilliant Muckish night - shame there weren't more Colmcillers.

When we got to the rock we were wet and the midges came out in big black clouds. We withstood their onslaughts with grim-faced fortitude though they bit and chewed with vigour, rigour and much persistence. It did not occur to us to head homewards because we knew that Pete, Dave and Marlene would soon arrive and that they would want to climb a few rain-improved routes.

"Bad night for it," said Bill; his first words since leaving the car.

"If you're going to jabber like an old woman," I answered him, "maybe you should find one to climb with."

We lapsed back into a tight-lipped silence and completed the night's quota of routes before trekking back to the car and driving home through the worsening rain.

Dave, Marlene and Pete never did turn up. I sometimes wonder if they really know what fun climbing can be: the great outdoors; the companionship; the raw excitement; the athleticism.

The outlook was poor when the intrepid two set out, a recce being the best they could hope for, but the sun came out, and the buttress edge did reveal itself to be a ridge of sorts, as they approached.
About four pitches said Alan, after his new year viewing. Hmmmm. Andy led the first pitch, up a vertical cracked wall, right of corner, starting from the bottom of a gully. Less steep, but crumbly and flakey progress to chimney. Climb rib in the middle. Good views out in all directions, including through the rock!- to the belay, 50m.

Steep pillar above looked like it might lead to easier ground, so Alan lead off, trying to use horizontal bands of good rock for holds and gear. It started to pour just as the relieved pair reached the grass pitch, so they changed into boots (being far sighted) but not waterproofs (not being that far sighted!)20m. Grass pitch 40m.

Whingin Ridge 70m Sev.(HVS for those of nervous disposition) The Tees Team.

The area climbed on is in the vicinity of probably the longest zawn, north and just West of West Town. The cliffs are lower, but still substantial, with the west side of the various inlets being generally slabby, with excellent rock, but often disappointingly easy, and the East side vertical/overhanging, again with mainly good rock. For details of routes climbed, look at the "New Climbs" section, but not yet!!

Have you ever lost your car keys? You put them down in a safe place and then just can't remember where they are? Well spare a thought for poor Peter Cooper who put his Fiat Multipla somewhere safe (!) and then searched a whole mountain before finding it again. He said he knew exactly where it was on the map, but the map was in the car and the car was... well.... somewhere safe.

The Colmciller trip to Crockanaffrin started off in a rather unpromising manner when a sunny, breezy day gave way to a sudden rainstorm just as we left Derry. Alan Tees and I met Donna Ryan at Bridgend and the rain was bouncing 6 inches off the road. With typical optimism we spotted a bit of blue sky to the west and set off. On arrival, the rain had abated, but the nice breeze in Derry had disappeared and the midges soon found us in the sultry conditions they love. We changed quickly and walked for 20 minutes or so to reach the crag.

Peter Cooper was already there, having left Derry at 4pm. He was parked somewhere else. Donna quickly claimed Alan as her climbing partner for the night and Peter took me to the "Upper Crag" where he had spotted a couple of new routes begging their first ascent.

We managed to get a short hard severe climbed (I suggest the name should be the same as the title of this report) before the rain came back. Alan, by this time, had bolted to meet his brother who was over from Scotland for a few days; so Donna, Peter and I stood under a shelter stone debating the likelihood of getting any further climbing. Eventually, we agreed that the routes would be too wet even if the rain did stop, so we packed up and headed for the car...Donna's car.

This is where the mystery starts. Why, you may ask, did Peter come to Donna's car? For some reason, they hatched a cunning plan between them: Peter would come with us and then Donna would drop him at his car before we all met Alan and his brother (and their respective wives) in a pub in Rathmelton.

We arrived at Donna's car with water dripping off us and our feet squelching in our boots. "I'm glad I'm not going out into that again," I said, as I threw myself into the car, chased by 10 million midges. Little did I know.

So then started the search for the missing Multipla. We sought it high, and we sought it higher. We sought it low, left, right, east and west, but never that motor did we espy. "I don't recognise these roads," said Peter. "I'm running out of diesel," said Donna.

After 20 minutes of searching, Peter hit on a brainwave. He decided that he could find his car if Donna left him where her car had been parked. He would walk back towards the crag and then, on recognising the lie of the land, he would, unfalteringly, retrace his steps till he came to his car. But he had no moby and no torch, so I went with him, after changing back into my wet clothes. Donna was to drive to Rathmullan and meet us there, but she was getting worried about petrol and her lack of means to pay for it.

Credit where it's due, Peter did lead us directly to his car. I suppose it was about a mile away over a wet hill, and he decided that my paunch needed reducing, so he ran. Once again I fought off the midges as I changed back into my almost-dry clothes, then we drove to Rathmullan to meet Donna.

Meanwhile, in Rathmullan, Donna had become so worried about her diesel situation that she stopped a staggering alcoholic, who was having difficulty preventing his stout from spilling in the road, and asked him for directions to a petrol station. He informed her, majestically, that he was Lord Mayor of Rathmullan and hopped aboard the jeep. He directed her to a closed petrol station, and between the two of them they managed to sweet-talk the owner into opening a pump and lending Donna 20 Euros of diesel until such time as she is in funds and back in the locality.

Donna then gratefully thanked her new pal, Slim Jim (the Lord Mayor), and offered him a lift home, which he accepted. Unfortunately, he felt that more gratitude was his due, and attempted to kiss Donna goodnight before inviting her in for coffee - an offer she politely declined (she says).

When Peter and I arrived, Donna alighted to meet us, only to be accosted by Slim Jim again. He had thought better of retiring for the night and had, instead, decided to weave his way back down the road to renew his budding friendship with Donna. He was still clutching a dangerously swaying glass of stout, and asked us 37 times if everything was alright now.

Not surprisingly, Alan and his party were not in the bar in Rathmelton by the time we arrived, so we had a pint and drove home.

All this for one 15 foot route!

Brian Martin, Peter Cooper and I went to Kinnego Bay for an afternoon's climbing in beautiful sunshine. I led Forked Lightning VS. Peter Cooper led Red Duster E1 (rest). Then I led Die Wrecked Sev.

That took the whole afternoon - things can be slow with three on a rope!

Wow! I jest not, this crag is in Derry, on the Cityside and only 2 miles from chez Smith. Who wants to clean it for me?

I'm going to give up and become a soothsayer. Anyone want their fortune told?

We went to Five Finger Strand first and I climbed the steep slopes under the Knockamany Bends to examine the crags overlooking the beach. They are of a similar, but chossier, construction to Crummie's Bay i.e. useless for climbing.

Next we travelled to Malin Head and I was amazed by the amount of rock in the locality and the solid look of the cliffs right at the Head. The ravine between the island and the mainland (Ireland's northmost tip - look on the map for a fine ravine) is extremely steep-sided and very narrow. The sea crashes in and out furiously and the climbing looks hard. Apart from that there is a lot of potential here for routes and bouldering on solid rock.

Amazing! And no one ever told me (apart from Peter Cooper, and let's face it, he's easily pleased). I took some pics and will post them soon.

Michael McGinty and I turned up at Dunmore Head at about 6pm on a still and muggy night - no rain but perfect weather for midges. When we'd been there about an hour, and completed Orange Blossom HS and Absent Friends VD, Peter Cooper and Brian Wingham turned up. Peter persuaded Brian to go round to the forbiddingly high WinAGoldfish Crags, where they did 5 routes in 10 minutes.

Michael and I carried on to Diversion HS, before I achieved an on-sight flash of Oxo in October Sev - quite an accomplishment in my shape. Next we moved to Grecian Gift VS before Peter and Brian arrived back to do Wallrock Alterations E1 with a lot of sound effects.

That was about it....I'm not so keen to mention my backing off from Absent Friends V so that Mikey could climb it...Ooops.

Then on Sunday, I joined Bill, Alan, Andy Pandy and Ian Nuttall for an early start at Crockanaffrin. I've never been very complimentary about this crag, but had to eat my words after leading Great Corner VS 4b, which is a very good route of good length. In my humble opinion, this would be considered a good route at many other crags. Bill and Alan did Springbok on a top-rope and were equally impressed. Maybe there's more to Crockanaffrin than I previously suspected.

We had a good look around the place (as Geoff hadn't been there before) and then we motored over to Warm Bay Point (because he hadn't been there, either).

After a gruelling tramp through the heather, we finally found the correct descent, only to be savaged by two million midges and forced to retreat.

Two climbers, two routes, two crags, two million midges...but we still enjoyed ourselves!

Alan Tees, Donna Ryan, Geoff Thomas and I met Sandra and Eileen (from Galway) at Dublin Port. We travelled to Capel Curig and stayed in the hut (pic) belonging to Geoff's old club.

Day 1: Alan and I climbed Slashed Crag VD on Tryfan while Eileen and Geoff did First Pinnacle Rib and Donna did Grooved Arete with Sandra.

Day 2: Eileen and I climbed Rib and Slab on Craig Ddu, and Alan, Donna and Sandra did Flying Buttress on Dinas Cromlech.

Day 3: We did some shopping and got the boat home.

We asked the staff if they could try to keep Thursdays free for the Colmcillers, and they said they would - which means we need to make an effort to be there.

Despite not getting a lot of climbing done, we had a good old chinwag. Paul is keen to get involved in club activities again, and the Strabane brothers are praying for a big freeze in Donegal as they fill their kitbags with axes and screws. The two of them did some routes at Malin Beg last week (and helped guidebook sales by sacrificing a copy to the waves).

David was out at Fairhead last week doing a bit of bouldering.

We were all impressed with the quality of Leo's delivery and the number of great slides, videos and blah blah blah, it was great.

After looking at some of my old reports on the webshite I felt a bit guilty for not contributing anything this century. So, as I've done so little I've condensed everything that I have done over the last few years into one report!

September 2000 saw me In the Himalayas with the MCI Millennium Youth Initiative. This was great craic and despite poor climbing conditions ascents were made of Island Peak and Lobuche East (both around 6000m). This was a great trip and a great experience for a young fella like me although 4 days of climbing in 5 weeks wasn't my cup of tea at the time and I would rather have been at Fairhead!

October 2000 saw me move to Wrexham, N.Wales to study Sport Science with high hopes of taking the world by storm, however lack of cash, transport, access issues with the university climbing wall and generally too much alcohol put paid to that pipe dream!

2001 was the crappest climbing year ever with the highlight probably being me falling off the last move of Grecian Gift!

2002 must have been even crapper as I can't recall doing anything! No, wait, I think I was benighted on Frankie's route Bawg in to your Oxters Sir! Oh and some crap routes around Clwyd.

2003 Yeah! This year saw a mini renaissance from the ex-e-man! First came a year's subscription to On the Edge magazine, then came occasional trips to Chester climbing wall! I also did my SPA training at Plas y Brenin. A trip home at easter saw my first trip to Muckross head with Dave Millar, which was cool until I tried in vain to follow Dave up numerous overhanging routes in the lower e-grades! I think I managed to lead Boho Dance, severe, after backing off pretty much everything else!

The summer was spent following an on form Dave Millar up numerous routes around the place as well as spotting while he cranked up new boulder problems. Although I did manage leads of Shining Cossacks, Orange Blossom and Cheatin Bitch. August saw a trip to Sligo with Dave, Al, Julie (Al's), Julie (mine), Marlene, Geoff Thomas etc.

In october Dave, Colin wright (he of the red bull and 24 inch biceps!), and Marlene took a trip to N. Wales. Good craic was had by all, especially me, despite borrowing Dave's leaking tent and spending the first night sleeping on a puddle after 2 days of near constant rain! Despite being too wet to climb on the Cromlech, some good climbing was managed in Tremadog and the slate, and on Holyhead mountain. Highlights for me were Christmas Curry (v-diff I think) at Tremadog, the Seamstress (VS) at one of the slate quarries and the Mega Scratch Arete (VS 5a) again at Tremadog. Bouldering at the bottom of the Cromlech was cool as well.

2004. After finally finishing my studies and moving to a relocated Castle Moore in Greysteel, most of the last six months has been spent in St Columb's wall. After thousands of pull-ups, numerous new boulder problems (and multiple ascents of old ones before Raymond started moving the holds!) as well as more reps on the lat bar in Eglinton gym than I would care to remember, I'm almost back to full fitness and looking forward to next year.

I did manage to escape the wall to do ascents of Orange Blossom (three times because I enjoyed it so much), Grecian Gift, Pea Pod, Bean Bob, Calamity Collins (notice any pattern yet?!), Shining Cossacks and Master of Puppets (twice).

There you go for any Colmcillers wondering where I've been hiding for the last few years (and I'm sure there's lots of you!), there is my last few climbing seasons in a nutshell! See you in 2008!

Rodders.

The weather was cool and dry so climbing was definitely a possibility, though not for me due to the sensitivity of my post-operative harnessable body parts. Alan Tees was intent on cleaning Dunmore's left crag, so I volunteered to join him and we asked Marty to show Jim Lad the ropes and take him up a route or two.

We got to the crag and kitted out the young un with harness and helmet, but he wanted for rock boots as his feet are size 13 and no one else approached such footy magnificence. Until, that is, Alan produced a pair of "size 12½" boots! I kept quiet with my doubts about their 12½ness because I knew Jim Lad wouldn't even try them if he thought they were smaller.

So, we got to the crag and had a nice time cleaning, while Marty led February Freeze Up and Oxo in October. Pete the Coop led a new line to the left of February Freeze Up and Donna and Alan Tees seconded. Jim Lad arrived back with a big smile and very sore feet - promising to climb in every spare moment for the rest of his life. I asked Alan the real size of his boots, and the old fox just grinned "Well, I'm a size 9 and they're too big on me". I advised Jim Lad to bear this incident in mind when Alan recommends that he lead Protestant Backlash or some similar horrid route.

A smashing afternoon was had. Next wet and dirty is on the 19th, closely followed by the mince pie wet and dirty on the 27th - don't miss 'em.

Big thanks to Stew, Vince and Grimer for their enthusiasm, and to the management of St Columb's Park wall for making it possible.

As you can see from the photo, it was a pretty grim old day for a walk. Anthony Feeney, Bill LeClerc-Gigot, John Meehan and I left Derry at about 10am. We walked up Slieve Snaght in mist and rain and wind. We walked back down and were in Derry again by 1.30pm with a car full of wet gear to sort out. Yuk!

But at least we were there - bet you're sorry you missed it.

Brendan wanted to learn prussiking, which was a good excuse for me not to work too hard. I just, like, did a few squares, you know?

There is something for every body and the bouldering is more fun than serious. Some routes are very easy but there are a few routes that require respect. Protection seems to be poor but a number of boulders and a side wall gave me a good outing while Deirdre and the kids took in the sun and the sea breeze.

A lovely dry breezy evening - perfect for climbing. Shame you weren't there!

We were not disappointed. I put up a short-but-perfect VD (photo) and Pete the Coop carved out a delicate and courageous HVS to the left of this - a route where the handholds seldom exceed half an inch and some of the toe holds are minuscule.

Alan had been "cleaning" while this was going on, so I joined him to follow up a couple of good VSs, which will be very good when they have had the choss and plants shaken from them!

We had a good afternoon; I was involved in 4 new lines, Pete and Brian did a couple or three more after this; and some brave, pioneering was undertaken by Alan and Peter.

Onward to Aviemore laden with all manner of winter climbing gear on the promise that Scotland was experiencing the 'best conditions' of the season. I don't think so. On arrival I was not entirely shocked to see the hills had been completely stripped of snow the freezing level having been well above the summits for weeks. Actually, it was quite nice and sunny. Away went the winter gear and out came the 'rack' . Savage Slit has been on my tick list for sometime. All I had to do now was bide my time until Sandra arrived and Marty took the children to friends in Newcastle. Sandra did arrive and very kindly looked after the children whilst martin and I had a pleasant wander up around the Northern Quarries and Cairngorm... again!

I wondered weather the climb would be soaked owing to seepage but that pondering was short lived. By the time I had freed myself of responsibilities the weather had changed dramatically several low pressure systems bringing wind (lots of), snow and misery. Sandra and I decided to head south to Lochnagar. A good decision although a long way we had a superb day on the hill, The hills were getting a bit of a dusting of snow but by Wednesday night it was hostile with road closures etc. We occupied ourselves with the climbing wall at the lodge, a trip to inverness and culloden battle sight and of course what else do you do when the weather is shit.....yes you guessed it.... make purchases in gear shops. I bought completely unnecessary things like a new pair of walking boots (I've got 6 already!) well they were a bargain.

Finally got a nice pump in the sun by toproping one of the E4s there (shit forgot the name, the one next to Birdie!) a couple of times, before heading of into the sunset .Brilliant.

Suffice to say that the Climbfest was a big success, with 60+ climbers registering with Margaret Tees.

I'll give a brief report of the bits I experienced, but I hope that everyone will add a little tale to the list because no one person could have seen it all.

Friday night I arrived in Culdaff and drove past Dunmore Head. Seeing 3 climbers I went and joined them. It turned out they were JP, Colm and Christine from the UUJMC contingent, so I paired off with JP and we did 3 routes. They also told me that a party of six or more climbers had been at the crag on their arrival, but had gone to get some food.

Saturday was when most of the crowds arrived. We were very excited to welcome climbers from Germany, Cork, the Czech Republic, Dublin, Belfast and many other places. T-shirt sales were going well and the weather held up nice and dry. When Dunmore Head was too crowded, a bunch of us went to Dunowen and did a few routes. By all accounts the barbie on Saturday night was great: loadsa people, big fire, singing, music, carousing till dawn...all the usual stuff.

Sunday started wet, but the sun soon returned and there were crowds of people on any rock you cared to look at.

Monday saw some folks travelling further afield. I joined _Psyke and a few others and went to Kinnego Bay. A crowd of Dubliners went to L. Barra, and there was climbing being done all round Culdaff.

Our thanks to Alan Tees and all who helped him - I'm sure everyone will agree that the whole venture was a big success and that we should go for a repeat next year.

Anyway, so there I was in impending doom, with my feet aching as they tried to expand against the restrictive confides of my undersized climbing boots, the sun burning the back of my neck, the locals with their superhero taunts and not a gear placement in sight. Oh yeah did I mention this was on Shining Cossacks? Don't laugh people do die on HVS you know!
And then out of the blue, hope appeared where there was none, as none other than the webmaster himself, colmcillers' very own secretary Pete Smith arrived! After having a good laugh at my predicament (these things are always funnier from the ground), He kindly lowered me an abseil rope which I gratefully accepted with my rock boots at this point needing surgically removed as they contorted my feet. Any way thankfully I survived with only my ego bruised. I guess I'll have to do more pull ups to climb 5a!

On a positive note, I managed to climb the excellent Diversion HS and Calamity Collins VS.
Before heading off to McGrorys for a well deserved Pint of the black stuff!
Thanks again Pete!

Rodders.

Tuesday and thursday nights are usually good crack and any new colmcillers out there would benefit from coming in and training with such a hardcore bunch, and Paul and Raymond as well, especially when its wet(though thankfully that doesn't happen much).

Rodders

I lead the awkward but excellent Calamity Collins VS 5a ("No way is that VS" according to Psyclone!), The Little cracker Master of Puppets HVS 5b and the superb Diversion HS. Frazer Cruised his way up PeaPob VS, his first lead in many a year, though it didn't show.

Julie and I returned to the climbfest on monday and went to Brazil Rock at bunagee, where between showers I managed to lead the Hustler HS, followed ably by julie. In my opinion this route is definitely VS so beware if your going to lead it, its pretty nifty, adventure climbing at its best! The route now has an in situ no.5 peanut protecting the crux, feel free to clip it and you can thank me later!

I hope everyone had a great weekend and it was great to catch up with so many old faces and see so many people at culdaff. Well done to Alan for organising such a great event.

Rodders

After this I managed to lead Diversion and later on in the evening I belayed Donna and then followed her on Diversion again. Marty and I had our first climb together. I managed a very rusty lead of Orange Blossom and not in the style of some CCC technical masters.

On Sunday, the rain in the morning led me to believe that there would be no climbing and a visit to the campsite increased this belief. On return in the evening, I was the last to find out that all were out climbing in Bunagee. What a crowd. I eventually made it to Brazil Rock about 4pm. I was hoping to lead the Hustler, one of my favourite climbs. However, Psyche and Stephen had already ascended it and I went up as well. Good job I did not lead it. It was like a virginal climb for me and I felt like a baby elephant climbing it. Anyway, this shook the cobwebs out and has reinforced in me the need to keep my climbing up to scratch. I will need to get out more.

On Monday, I spent with the family on the Western Side of Inishowen and got some bouldering in on my favourite rocks from my younger days. Fr. Hegarty's Rock and the South beach rock on Stragill Beach. The onset of evening rain made us run for the car and then to Letterkenny. A brilliant (but rusty) weekend and well done to the CCC for organising the event. Preparation needed for next year's Climbfest.

I was at the lay-by at 5.30pm hoping to meet some other Colmcillers but none materialised, so I drove to Letterkenny and joined Emmett, Nacho and Mikey McGinty. We headed up to Crockanaffrin and climbed in perfect conditions: warm, windless and bright.

First off, Mikey led Great Corner and Emmett put up a new, daring (read unjustifiable) route on a crumbling pile of choss.

Then they did Great Corner and we climbed the crumbling pile of choss. I had the good sense to back off from halfway; Mikey didn't, and so scared himself almost witless.

By then it was getting dark so we walked back to the car. Good crack.

Personally, with my sore finger, I was looking for a soft day (even softer than usual), so I was happy enough when he told me that Emmett and Brian were meeting at Dunmore Head. I arranged to tag along for a couple of routes and then wander off to photograph the peregrine (see? optimism).

That was pretty much what happened. Emmett led Diversion and we followed him up. Then Brian led Orange Blossom while Peter Cooper was pushing Harbhi across the bog in a buggy. Three of us seconded this route watched by the beautiful Harbhi. Bags I get her as a belayer when she's old enough to start climbing (no jokes about ballast, please).

Emmett then led Peapob in double quick time and I went to capture the peregrine on film. I failed, though I did see a pair of choughs and I was pleased about that.

Just a brief footnote: there were 4 climbers at the crag when we arrived and they all expressed an interest in joining the Colmcillers if they were able to meet our demanding entrant criteria. They were ugly, so I told 'em to sod off. Emmett is a Dubliner living in Buncrana, and like our Tresh, he is an Aberystwyth graduate. He'll be an asset to the club - enthusiastic and competent (seems like a nice chap, too, but I don't want to embarrass him on a public webshite).

4-Peak Challenge? Pah! I went 5 peaks yesterday! Phil Magill and I went for a training session in the Mournes (Monday 16th May). The plan was Slieve Donard and weather permitting maybe Slieve Commodagh. We got to Newcastle with the radio stations all proclaiming how great the weather in Northern Ireland was when all we could see was low cloud. Phil claimed to have seen blue sky at Ballymena and was optimistic things would improve but we were already reaching for the waterproofs when we were barely out of Donard Forest. We reached the Mourne Wall at the Commodagh / Donard Saddle and crossed it into a chill wind and low cloud.

Phil challenged me to storm on up Donard then come back and meet him to re-ascend but when I reached the peak I was so out of puff I'd barely descended 50 yards when he emerged from the cloud. I think he didn't want to be shown up too much and had pushed on a little himself. We passed 4 other walkers descending, 3 of them in trainers trying not to fall on their arse. The cairn at the peak was stinking of meths or some other fuel and we barely hung around to eat a quick bite and say hello to 2 other walkers who'd sneaked up behind us. We took a different route down descending into the Bog of Donard where we glimpsed the promised blue sky and Phil readied the sunglasses. We dandered across the bog and below Commodagh to the gap at Slieve Bearnagh which Phil challenged me to ascend while he dozed in the encroaching sunshine. Halfway en-route to the North Tor I realised I should have involved money in these challenges. Didn't make the higher Tor cos I was bloody knackered and we had the three peaks of Commodagh, Corragh and t'other one (Slievenaglogh ???) to ascend on the way home.

Back to the gap, change of socks and a snack and we enjoyed the peace and quiet for a wee rest. Wouldn't have been like that on a weekend I'm told. Strolled over the unknown peak and Corragh and sweated over the Commodagh ascent, the pace having slowed considerably. Picked up some dirty bugger's sweetie wrappers and empty bottles - bah! Another snack in the cairn which was much cleaner than Donard's then down to the saddle and on down into the forest. From an 11am start it was after 7pm when we reached the car. Phil tells me today we walked 17km and ascended a total of 1480 metres which is just over Ben Nevis's height of 1343. Not a bad day's walk. I'm tired today but not totally incapacitated. But factor in another 3 peaks in the preceding 36 hours and not much sleep and I've now got an inkling of just how knackered I'm going to be when the challange is over. :(

At this point Noel and I headed up the Heavenly Gate route towards the base of Howling Ridge. After a shaky start Noel and I topped out and we then explored the upper Cliffs on the Eastern Face. These contain some really good scrambling opportunities from small rocky outcrops and Pippet's Ridge. It was the first time that I saw into the upper left hand branch of Collin's Gully (unclimbed). Meanwhile the remainder of the group headed up through the high glens to Brother O'Shea's Gully. From the Bheinn Caorách Ridge they then turned up the hill to the summit. Noel and I eventually joined them on the summit. I rang Marty but he was too busy hanging on to something on the Cuillin Ridge in Skye to answer.

Anyway, we descended towards the Bheinn Caorách Aréte. For safety, we took the lower track for about 50 metres and then scrambled up to the crest. Tom, Micky and I returned on the crest to the start of the aréte and we then skylined the ridge to Bheinn Caorách's summit. From there we took a rather interesting but very long detour across the remaining tops towards the carpark and the amber nectar. A great weekend was had by all.

This appeared in the Sunday Journal 22nd May 2005

If you happen to be walking up Shipquay Street this week and see men abseiling off the Richmond Centre or 30 year-olds skateboarding down the street, don't panic! It's not that Angelina Jolie is waiting at Shipquay Gate and they are all trying to beat each other to the finishing line. They're merely gratifying themselves having found for their entire species, a new definition.

Us ladies are all familiar with lost boys syndrome and have tried in vain to nurture our guys over the years so that they won't feel as lost.
How often they have stood there with confused eyes as they swear they knew nothing about cleaning the toilet. This was in the very early stages of male definition you see. Aptly titled: "I'm a man and that's all I have to say about that."

Then we moved to the 'metrosexual' phase, where not only were our men happy to lend a hand and even purchase pot pourri for the aformentioned bathroom, but the cabinet was weighed down with most of their toiletries.

We had men's moisturiser, nightcream, wrinkle cream and in a few rumoured cases even tinted moisturiser. (They know who they are!)
Although we were glad that the guys had decided to follow our lead and at least try their hand at multi-tasking (regular skin routine plus daily household chores plus life), we did feel a bit afraid.

Modern man

I mean, give me your modern man any day but I still prefer to come home to someone who's sacrificed the moisturising routine and decided to get on his horse and drink his milk, or if he's not John Wayne and he's from perry get into his car of preference and go for a moody drive. Ruggedly handsome never goes out of style.

I am, therefore, delighted this week to know that the metrosexual man is on his way out. For a start, I like to have free range over the beauty counter in Debenhams without Joe from Ballymac standing over me.

Yes ladies, this week came the news that the increasingly self-conscious metrosexual has been replaced with the adrenosexual.

Extreme sports

Defined by their healthy relationship with fear and love of action outside the gym, the Adrenosexual is the new adrenaline urban warrior who gets his kicks speed carting, releases his tension by tightrope and works out his worries with wing walking.

One man who knows quite a bit about extreme sports is Pete Smith, the architect of the Colmcille Climbers website calling all Derry people to participate in extreme sports.

Speaking to the SUNDAY this week, Pete said although there has been a gradual increase in men joining the club over the years, the increase hasn't been dramatic. Pete also came to a few conclusions about himself during the course of our conversation! "I started rock climbing
when I was 17, but the main growth recently has been with indoor climbing where there are bolts and ropes, its really non-dangerous.

"The kind of climbing I do means that I could die, us people who do this have no fear...oh God am I an adrenosexual?"

I decided to give Pete some time to come to terms with his recent revelation. Meanwhile, I distracted him by getting onto the subject of other extreme sports. It appeared as if the recently proclaimed adrenosexual had no time for anything which wasn't
truly macho.

"Surfers just sit there waiting for a wave to come in, I mean what's that all about. Snowboarding, well that's just skateboarding on
snow."

In conclusion to my own extreme journalistic research, I have discovered that the adrenosexual male has no time for anything which doesn't mean risking his life. I wonder how far the species will evolve before they start taking life-risking measures like... cleaning the toilet and maybe even making the bed?

The caption on the photo is more embarrassing:
Derry climber and self-confessed adrenosexual Pete Smith pictured recently climbing Muckish Mountain in Donegal.

We set off on a totally horrible Saturday morning for a weekend climbing at Pollnalong near Downings, Donegal. The wind was about force 8, and forecast to reach storm 10, and the rain was coming down by the bucketload. Luckily we had a nice comfy house to keep us warm and dry, though the 16 people at the campsite were not so lucky and had to erect tents before they could be as cosy!

On Sunday the sun came out and Geoff Thomas and I met Donna, Rosie, Peter Cooper and Brian Wingham at the crag. Unfortunately, Geoff was feeling the effects of his back injury and we opted out of the climbing and left the others to have a great day at the crag (I hope). Perhaps they'll submit their own report soon.

When I arrived, he had already had a look around and was mightily impressed with what was on offer. We did some problems, took some photos, chewed the fat and headed home at about 10pm. An enjoyable night was had.

Took a quick spin to Dunmore Head on Sunday morning and did Bean Bob VS and Cheatin' Bitch severe.That's it really.

Rodders.

My excellent navigation skills on the summit of Tryfan led us back down the NE Ridge. Noel pointed this out and we went off on a SSW direction to ascend Bristly Ridge. It was good on a sunny day but today was much better with the fog in. We made the Cantilever stone in thick fog and then down for a pint.

Sunday saw us having a quieter day (Noel had to make the boat) so we went up Crib Goch. The sun broke the rocks and we both got burned. As usual the scrambling was great. Noel made the boat in excellent time.

Monday was great weather sunshine all day. Colin and Tom made it from Liverpool and we went to the Idwal Slabs. Great fun and loads of stuff available. The rock is generally very rough but thousands of boots have smoothed some parts of it. In true style of a 100 years ago, Colin and Tom made a 460 foot ascent of 'Ordinary Route' with nothing more than a 30m rope and 1 sling. I got a sun tan cragging freestyle the first pitches of all the lower routes. A great day to end a great weekend.

Brian and I did a couple of easy routes that I put up last year, and then we went to the secret zawn and I puffed and grunted my way up Seabird (provisionally Hard Severe, but feeling harder this time).

Pete Cooper was doing the first ascent of a route to my right and I owe him a big "thank you" for delivering a 2.5 friend to me at my hour of need.

Whilst there we bumped in local legends Dr Paul Dunlop and E-man Jason Frazier and some nice climbers who came from Portadown for the day to visit Irelands only roadside crag!

Rodders

Dave led an Beginners minds E1 followed by Frazier and myself. at this point I should have released I can't jam or bridge for shite (too much time spent doing stupid things like pull ups and squares!), but ever the optimist I tried Faith mo Burtha E1 5B, which chewed me and my crap jamming skills up and spat me out half way up! After a couple of falls (my first in 5 years as well, probably the highlight of my day!) I decided to lower off rather than spend the rest of the day aid climbing.

Frazier then showed me how its done by leading the Black thief VS 4b followed by myself. Dave led the route for the "aspiring hard man" GBH E3 6a, taking a fall (a hard mans fall mind you, not a girly "I can't do it take me" one like mine!) followed by Ian Chestnut who arrived.

We then headed to Ballycastle for a nice pint and headed home. Even though I didn't have my best climbing day It was great to be back at Fairhead, surely the best crag in the land! I mean there's just so many classic routes to back off, er I mean climb.

Rodders.

There's not much more than that to be said really. Alan took me up a slippery severe and we knocked a few lumps of rock off an HVS beside it. Then we cursed the rain and carried our wet sacks back home.

However, we did manage to climb Salty Dog S, Good Ship Venus VS (top rope), Raw Hand, Claw Hammer, Catherine D and Black Toe (photo).

Rodders