Dunsevrick

A Scorpion, VDiff,
B Beasties, VDiff.
C Hook the Nook, HS4a.
D Molten Music, HS4a.
E Breezy Lava, VS4b.
F Seagull Seize, HS4b.
G Causeway, VS4b.
H Groover, HS4b.
I Slithery Zawn Direct, VS4b.
J Crafty Yachting, Sev.4a.
K Seamore Sweeney, VD.
L Wind Up, VD.
M Battlement Stance, VD.
N Craicslova, VD.
O Regulation Rock, VD.
P Period Ant Bites, HVS5b.
Q Spring Tide Seas , Sev .

Directions: From Bushmills head out the road to Giants Causeway. At Causeway follow the road (B146) sharp right to Ballintoy. After 3 or 4 miles there is the NT car park for Dunseverick Castle on the left. From here take the coastal path East around toward Port Braddan for 5 minutes passing a short quarried area on the right. 50m after a stile that is unnecessary as the path continues beside it, a sea stack a few metres detached from the cliff on the left can be seen. This is the beginning of the harder section of cliff that runs for 50m Eastwards before turning into the small bay. For this West Crag access is by abseil down between the stack and the mainland or further east from a good stake located on a high point where then cliff turns the corner into a small bay. (From this high point you can look across at the easier section of cliff and Spring Tide Sea and Wanderers Sights can be seen.) To get to the East Crag, from the stakes either descend into the little amphitheatre or follow the path for 100m around the edge of the amphitheatre until a smaller path leading left of the main one leads down past a short rock wall on the left (and continued by a crude man made wall) into a pleasant grassy area with an obvious abseil boss at the point where the cliff turns out of the bay and goes eastwards again. 30m East of the first abseil boss is a second one, set back from the cliff edge a few metres and less obvious. This second boss is necessary as the scrambling between ledges along the bottom is interrupted between the two by a narrow slithery zawn that is only dry at absolute low tide and is splashed for most of the time. The Rock is characterised by many good corner cracks separated by narrow prow areas usually no more than a few metres wide. In some cases the prows are foreshortened to give big flat ledges, that may be the reason why no one has climbed here as it looks as if there are no continuous lines. But the corner and groove features going down below these ledges give good climbing at the grade. The rock is blackened by wave washing at the bottom but at the top tends to be less clean and care is required. The routes are described from left to right and the routes left of the slithery zawn are best approached from the second belay boss because they are on the other side of the slithery zawn. None of these lines are tidal. The second belay boss leaves you down a wide gentle recess in the cliff bounded on each side by two cracks. The left crack is Molten Music.

Map ref: C988446