New route descriptions for the Eglish Valley

from Ronnie Smith.

GATEPOST CRAG: Access to the following routes are via a cleaned right - left broad crack to the left of Dawson White Knuckle Ride. This leads to a shelf area known as The Lost World. The first route starts from this shelf at a rounded flake.

Roariamma HVS 4c, 25m.** A.Tees/B.Johnston (spelling probably wrong??) Start below bulging rock directly above the shelf at the top of the access crack at the rounded flake. The route follows the large flake crack in the upper wall Climb steeply over bulge to gain left trending groove. At the top of this groove step across and into the base of the large crack/flake in the upper wall. Climb the flake with a smile on your face and hopefully a large hex or friend on your harness. Brilliant positions for the grade.

Barbarella VS 4b,20m * B.Johnston/R.Smith 14/4/00 Start at the prominent corner 3metres left of Roariamma. Follow corner and make difficult moves to gain ledge. Continue in the corner to the top in fine positions.

Jurrassic E3 5c/6a? 20m *** R.Smith/B.Johnston 11/5/00 Start 3m left of Barbarella corner. Below a left facing hanging corner/groove. Gain the corner/groove and layback to the overhang 10m. layback around this to a small fin of rock. With difficulty step up and unto face and make a committing move to better jam. Sustained and strenuous. (2.5 friend useful on gaining main face. The face is climbed directly to the top.

Variation to Dawson White Knuckle Ride.- Dawson White Knuckle Ride Direct E1 5b? 30m** R.Smith/B.Johnston 3/9/00 Start as for original route. Climb 4m and where original steps right continue straight up to join it again on the main face crack. Continue to large ledge. Step left to the base of steep finger/layback crack and climb this to the top. Superb!
The next four routes are on the small buttress to the left of the waterfall wall, at the bottom left of the gatepost area. This buttress is known as Juniper Buttress. The obvious point of reference is the large open corner, which is taken by Two Fingers of Gin.

Two Fingers of Gin VS 4c, 15m ** B.Johnston/R.Smith 2/7/00 Start at large corner. Gain the corner from beneath a small overhang with difficulty. Continue in the corner to the top.

Songbird E1 5b, 15m * R.Smith/B.Johnston 18/6/00 Start at "Two Fingers" corner. The route takes the overhanging wall immediately to the right. Follow the corner for 2m until holds on the right wall can be reached. Make a difficult and committing move right to gain rightwards slanting hold. Climb the wall above direct on good holds.

Juniper Wall VS 4c, 15m *** R.Smith/B.Johnston 18/6/00 Start at lowest point of Juniper Buttress. The route climbs the face with the obvious right- left crack. Gain ledge 1m and climb the left crack to the overhang (awkward). Pull over on large holds to gain the wall above. Climb the wall directly finishing to the left of the juniper bush. Good route!

Daxhound Days E2 5c, 12m * R.Smith/B.Johnston/J.McCready 17/08/00 Start 3m left of Two Fingers of Gin. There is a groove crack left of the arete with a series of small ledges to the left. Climb to the obvious pocket and arrange gear (No3 friend) layaway on sidepull and reach left to ledge. Reach high right for layaway edge and commit to face. Move up and rightwards on poor holds to gain reasonable edge. Move up for better holds and flake on the arete (rest). Finish via cracks on wall passing the rowan tree on the left.
Above and to the left of Juniper Buttress @ 20m there is a steep buttress. Last post!

Didgit Revival E15b, 12m, 15/7/00 R.Smith/B.Johnston Start 2m right of obvious fault/crack on white coloured wall. Make an awkward move to gain wall and continue to overhanging headwall. Make a long reach too vertical faultline in headwall and then better holds finishing right. Sweet Surprise VS 4c,12m* 15/7/00 B.Johnston/R.Smith Start 2m right of Didgit at rounded crack running to the top. Follow crack to the top.