Errigal's North North East Ridge

1st January 2002 - (Columba McLaughlin)

Tradition has it that on the 1st day of the New Year, Joe Ferris and I go off to Errigal. This year Joe's daughter Roisin came in tow. The sun shone down and the omens looked good. When we got to Hilltop in Letterkenny, Errigal was standing very proud, clear and draped in her winter mantle of snow

The road was good. However, on the mountain road, just past the junction with Muckish Pass, we met Tony, Michael and AN Other (All from NWMC) heading back to Glenveigh. Their view was the road ahead was impassable with several inches of 'Black Ice' and there was a car in the ditch. The remaining few miles was too risky. We decided to join then and meet up with the other NWMC members at Glenveigh National Park.

At the entrance of the park, we met the others. For most, the decision was to go up Muckish from the Grotto on Muckish Pass. However, Pat Bradley and Richard Baille (NWMC), Joe and Roisin (Free Lancers) and myself (CCC) thought that Muckish Pass was passable, such was our innocence. I got out at the Grotto and the ice was soon apparent but Richard decided to freewheel down the first slope past the point of no return. Pat followed. There was no way up again and it was forward hoe. I got out of Richard's car to try and guide his 2 right wheels onto the grassy edge. However, it was so slippery on the ice that I could not stay upright on the road without holding onto the car. Richard got around the corner, went great for 3 metres and then took off like a rocket. We all looked on in horror. He made the bridge without going over the edge of the road. Pat followed suit and although at retirement age, the expression on his face was that of a 5-year-old who was excited, shocked, frightened and full of expectation. I never seen anyoneone become so youthful in such a short space of time. Luckily both cars avoided the sharp drop on the left and safely made the bridge. We met another car trying to get up hill. In this car were parents, children, a dog and a birthday cake. We advised them to retreat and then we all made very slow progress to Falcarragh.

The road from Falcarragh to Dunlewey was clear of snow and ice and we made good progress. The view of Errigal with her winter mantle was brilliant from here . However, when we got to Dunlewey the road up to car park at the South East Ridge (Traditional Route) was thick with ice. We were advised by the Mountain Rescue not to go any further than the car park as they had pulled several vehicles from the ditch. From the car park, we noticed several people skiing down Errigal. The snow conditions looked good. I packed my crampons and ice axes and decided on the North North East Ridge as the route of choice. Richard decided to accompany me. Although NWMC members call this the North West Ridge and in the Irish Mountain Log (IML55) Autumn 2000 it was termed as the North North West Ridge, it is actually facing 10 degrees North North East. Thus, in fairness it should be given its proper title.

The snow was good and we made steady progress to the Col between Errigal and Mackogh. Traversing the long East face was complicated because the snow was not consolidated and it was very loose. The loose scree also complicated matters. High above on the ridge I noticed a small troop making their way up the North North East Ridge. An educated guess was that it was Alan (El Presidente), Margaret and the Tees Clan on their annual 1st of January excursion. This guess has since been confirmed.

Richard and myself easily reached the first difficult part of the ridge. Richard opted to avoid climbing a small crack in a broad slab for a snowy and precipitous scramble up to the right.

The snow here was very loose, there was little or no ice and our axes were used mainly to gain purchase in any available cracks in the rock. On occasion we were able to bury our axes in frozen turf. Before long we were on a narrow part of the ridge

with brilliant views in all direction. The view down the ridge from this point was, as always, sensational. In snowy conditions it was simply breath taking. Rather than detour over to the 'Rock Window', we kept to the ridge. By 4.20pm we were on the summit. At this time the sun was in the west and there was a huge bank of cloud in the Coire between Errigal, Mackogh and Aghla Mór. Just on the summit ridge we witnessed a 'Brocken Spectre'. One can travel on the hills all their lives and never see one. Both Richard and I felt privileged to witness one of such clarity. As the sun set we went down to the valley guided by moonlight reflected off the snow. So ended an exciting and adventurous day, filled with drama and a great climb. Joe and Roisin were waiting patiently at the car park. Next year we will take the coast road.

Áth blián nua duith, Columba