Introduction to rock climbing. |
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By Frankie McCloskey (M.I.A.- just in case you think I'm making all this up!!) (Ed's note - MIA stands for "Made in Azbakistan") Gear: Have a look at the following list, and decide which of these things you will need for your day out. Those items marked with a star are things that I would consider essential. The other items carried will depend on the nature of your day. Rucksack (long walk?) *Helmet * Harness * Rope(s)!! (You need 2x50 metre ropes for multipitch routes in case you have to retreat.) Spare Karabiner (multi-pitch routes) Hoker (known by various names: this is used to take out protection gear.) *Belay device with HMS karabiner (The ATC is best, especially for double ropes.) Rock-boots. Chalk and chalk bag. *Lunch and a flask (Don't cheat on the Grub! You might be out longer than you expect!) *Approach shoes, boots, wellies? Spare clothes *Waterproofs *Map and compass (mountain - again check with your leader and make sure at least one of you knows how to use them). Guidebook (or make sure your leader has one!) *First aid kit - any medicines, inhalers, etc that you are using * Head torch (for hill-walking and multi-pitch climbing, this is very important.) Weather forecast and condition of route - (again, check with your leader.) Bring a change of clothes to leave in the car for going home. The leader usually carries own gear. The second or seconds usually carry a rope or sometimes both ropes and their own personal gear. Don't stand on ropes or burn them with cigarettes, lighters, molotov cocktails etc. Belaying of a leader Position of belayer, away from fall line and not too far out from cliff, (this can unseat vital runners). If the second is belayed, (s)he must be positioned in line with the anchors and tight. (That does not mean (s)he is excused from buying a round in the pub afterwards.) Belaying is a skill that requires proper training, practice, communication and experience of the leader concerned. With a bit of cop-on and a realisation of your responsibilities, though, it is no big deal! This skill is, however, better demonstrated than explained, so I will not cover it in any great detail here. Communication and Climbing Calls: A lot of people are confused by and confuse Climbing calls! This is mainly caused by a lack of understanding of their purpose and a lack of experience of their use. You might do single-pitch climbs for years without seeing their importance, but try a sea cliff with a big wave crashing below you, or three pitches up a mountain route on a windy day or above an overhang and you'll want to be sure you are belayed before you untie from your anchors. The calls are designed to be understandable at a distance, in wind, etc. That is why the order, number of syllables and using the correct call is so important. Again it is not rocket-science but it is best to learn the CORRECT way of doing it and stick to it! Learn it right and do it the same way EVERY time, so as it becomes instinctive and you can enjoy your climbing and concentrate on more progressive aspects. Here are the Climbing calls for a typical pitch of rock climbing: 'Climb when you're ready' (said by second to leader when everything is ready for him to start the pitch) 'Climbing' (the leader's answer) 'OK' (the second's final confirmation that all is well) The leader will usually inform the second when he places his first, and subsequent good runners. He may also make a comment as to the security of these runners. The usual call for this is "runner on" sometimes qualified by "that's a good one" or 'bomb-proof". 'Slack' (the leader wants more slack rope paid out) 'Take in' (the leader wants rope taken in) These last two calls are often confused and mixed, causing lots of problems. 'Watch me' (said by a leader who is under the cosh, but the second should be watching anyway!) Sometimes a leader may need to be told things, such as that his ropes are crossed or any other information that the second considers important. The leader does not need to be told that his last runner has fallen out when he is on the crux of a climb! Any information given to the leader from below must only be done when the leader is safe and comfortable. The second should not make fatuous comments and sarcastic jokes. Also, try to avoid off-putting conversations between seconds below when a leader may be concentrating. 'I'm safe' (said by the leader after he has finished the pitch and has at least one good anchor in -this sometimes takes time after the leader is seen to finish the pitch, be patient!) 'OK, taking you off'. "O.K" (leader's acknowledgement.) 'Off Belay' (This is an important call often left out. The leader probably needs a minute (or twenty) to construct his belay and he cannot get rope until you take him off belay. It's Important to let him know the rope is available by use of this call). "OK" (the leader's acknowledgement that you have taken him off belay) There will now follow a pause sometimes of only a minute or two but often a lot longer, depending on conditions and availability of anchors on the stance above. During this time the second can get ready to second the pitch. This is "break time" for the second. The second can now relax and prepare to climb. The art of belaying can take a lot of patience. The belayer should not be eating his lunch or doing up shoelaces while the leader is risking it above! Belaying demands that you make the safety and comfort of your leader your top priority: the leader, after all, is counting on you to save his life if need be. You must have enough slack so the leader can move without being pulled from the rock, can move up, again without being hindered, but also with a minimum of slack rope to limit the fall length as much as possible - it requires care and attention! People who do not take these responsibilities seriously are often not asked to go out again! (You know who yeese are, ye bastoods) After the leader has finished constructing the belay anchors, (s)he will take the slack rope in. This should be accompanied by the leader's call, "Taking in". When the rope has come tight to the second, this is confirmed by the second's call, "That's me" The leader then puts the second on belay, which can take a while. The next call a second will hear is: "Climb when you're ready" To confirm this, the second calls, "Climbing". This call is given as soon as the leader has called "Climb when you are ready", and BEFORE any belay anchors are taken out! The leader acknowledges this with the call: "OK ". At this stage the second can climb, after having taken out the belay anchors. ENJOY! And don't forget, you have the right to reply!!! i.e. If things don't feel right, check,check,check!!! Your wanting things right should insult nobody!!! Slan go whatsits |
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