Brain and Andy on The Isle of Arran
10-13th September 2001
Written by Andy McInroy
Finding inspiration in the superb photos of Arran granite
in 'Classic Rock', Brain Martin and I braved the Vomit Comet (Seacat)
to Scotland. We planned to get to grips with the impeccable slabs of
the magnificent Rosa Pinnacle of Cir Mhor.
The Rosa Pinnacle
After pitching our tents high up in Glen Rosa, directly below the imposing
Rosa Pinnacle, we set off to climb the classic South Ridge Direct (VS).
This 1100ft, 'Hard Rock' route, is widely regarded as Arran's best.
Brain led the snaking S Crack (4c) in fine style. He didn't even need
to use the huge porridge bowl hold at half height! I then had the job
of tackling the formidable but well protected Y Cracks (5a). It took
a couple of attempts before I could work out the sequence of jamming
moves. I was very relieved at the top as I'd been having nightmares
about the pitch after my experience last year of seconding it with
a huge pack. Brain did a grand job of seconding the cracks with the
rucksack full of walking boots and mars bars. Both of us escaped with
only mild lacerations to our knuckles.
The next hard pitch was the sweeping Layback Crack (4b).
Unfortunately, as Brain started to lead this pitch the rain started.
The pitch quickly turned into a skid pan and Brain was forced to lower
off. At this stage we were both concerned about our situation as the
thought of a retreat down 5 pitches was not comforting. After summoning
up some courage and asking Brain to smoke me a kipper, I tackled the
crack. Through fogged up glasses I somehow, managed to slip and slide
my way across the rightward trending slab. After wiping our brows we
completed the rest of the easy pitches in the rain. Back at base, the
weather deteriorated further and gusting wind pounded our tents for most
of the night. Out in the darkness we could hear the eerie barking of
the sex crazed Stag. It was a night I was glad of a warm sleeping bag
and a sturdy tent.
The following day the weather was very fine and we tackled the sunny
Sou'wester Slabs (340ft VDiff). Despite the modest grade, this climb
is sustained and has some fantastic situations on the immaculate sweeping
slabs. The belay below a giant overhang the size of a small house was
particularly memorable. To finish the day we traversed along the exposed
A' Chir ridge (Mod). At the summit stone
[pic] we were delighted to find a small herd of deer grazing just
below us.
 Click
for the real photo
They didn't seem to be too bothered by Brain's grunting and heaving as
he made the awkward ascent of the giant summit block. From this airy
perch we could see over many miles from Ireland all the way to Ben More
and the Southern Highlands. Both of us agreed that this was a perfect
climax to a memorable weekend.(photo)
Glen Rosa and Cir Mhor
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