Beinn Dorain and the Curved Ridge

June 2nd - 3rd 2001 - Columba McLaughlin

Tom Massey (Liverpool Branch of the CCC) and I (Columba McLaughlin) met up in Crianlarach on Friday 1st June 2001. For once I had not made any definite plans. If the weather was good, then Skye it was to be. However, it was giving showers in the valleys and strong winds and snow or hail above 2500ft. The freezing level was given as 3000 ft. I left the decision up to Tom and would be happy with his choice. He had been up 2 Munros that evening and he thought that a dander up Beinn Dorain (3524 ft/1074m) and a follow on to Beinn na Dothaid (3289 ft/1002m) would be feasible in the prevailing conditions. So the decision was made. In the morning the sky was clear, there was some cloud and no wind.

After a stiff haul, we gained the summit of Beinn Dorain (see photo). There were terrific views in all directions, something of a rarity in the Scottish Mountains. While we basked in sunshine, we watched the snow fall on nearby hills. Anyway we headed along the ridge to the col and ascended Beinn na Dothaid. This is a triple topped mountain with the middle peak being the summit. It was so bright that we did not take bearings, even when it started snowing. The summit looked as if it was just above us and we clambered up to this very visible peak. Imagine our shock to find that we were on the 3rd peak and the true summit was to the west. It was not visible from the col. I would not be surprised if a lot of people made a similar mistake in less visible conditions. The wind was strong but the views towards Nevis were brilliant. The NE ridge of the Ben was now denuded of snow. What a change that was from our visit in April 2001 (see report). We decided to descend to the col for refreshments and a respite from the wind. Then we returned early to Crianlarach.

After dinner and particularly after a few pints, Tom suggested that on Sunday we do some rock climbing on the Cobbler (Arrochar Alps). I agreed on the provision that the weather held. After a few more pints, I suggested the Aonach Eagach. However, Tom, having done it before, wanted something straight forward that would get him back to the car before 6pm and early to bed in Liverpool. So we agreed on the 'Curved Ridge' on the north east face of the 'Buachaille Etive Mór in Glencoe. Weather permitting of course.

Up early on Sunday morning, we soon packed and were on the road to Glencoe. The cloud base was well above the mountains and there were blue spots in the sky. We parked in Glen Etive, headed across the Rannoch Moor and crossed the river Etive by way of precarious stepping stones. From this vantage point the view of the Buachaille Etive Mór (3345ft/1022m), its many Gullies, Ridges and the Rannoch Wall was magnificent (see photo). After a stiff scramble to approx. 630m line we arrived at the base of 'Crowberry Gully', the Rannoch Wall' and the foot of Curved Ridge. Quite a number of climbers were on 'Agag's Groove' and there was a queue at the bottom of it. We met Paul and Billy (both from Glasgow) at the base of 'Curved Ridge'. We roped up in our respective pairs. I decided to lead.

For those not in the know, 'Curved Ridge' is graded in some books as a scramble with a few rock-climbing sections. Some other books grade it as a moderate rock climb. Also, it is a grade II winter climb and has a 3 star rating. Overall, it is an Alpine style route and gracefully curves up and under the Rannoch Wall. Anyway, the fun bit is to keep to the ridge and avoid the temptations to the right in 'Easy Gully'. Tom has a frequency for monosyllabic responses and I asked of him 'what do you think?', his response was 'Steep'. Gaining the ridge has several options, so I turned again to Tom for advice and said 'which way do you think?' His enthusiastic response was 'up'. Well there you have it. How could I go wrong with advice like that! Anyway, the first pitch on the ridge was a very exposed, and steep 40 metre run out on good clean rock, with super jug holds, small ledges but no placements for gear. I soon reached a large ledge where you could have a dinner party and tied in well back. Tom had no difficulty on the way up (see photo of Curved Ridge) and he soon joined me at the belay. The 2nd pitch was not as steep but equally exposed. Thereafter, it was a long scrambly section and we moved alpine style to the base of the final obstacles. This final section is a very steep series of towers, each of which present short rock climbing problems. Although exposed, none were difficult. Before long we were on the final section of the ridge and under the 'Crowberry Tower'. A cairn marks the end of 'Curved Ridge' (see photo). In reality this cairn is a large rock with a few stones on top. After the cairn, there is an exposed move across steep scree (problematic in soft snow conditions) and then a short dander up passed 'Crowberry Tower' and then up left to the summit of the Buachaille and refreshments. Paul and Billy joined us at the summit cairn and we accompanied them down Coire na Tulaich and back to the car. It was strange to find the Buachaille and Coire na Tulaich devoid of snow. Anyway, climbing by 'Curved Ridge' is a much more respectable way to climb the mountain than we did in April 2001 (see report). Total time from the car and return to the car - a respectful 6 hours. Very soon I was waving farewell to the 'Magic Tree' on Rannoch Moor and heading for Glasgow for a feed and a few pints with the cousins. Tom had a long journey back to Liverpool. A good weekend, with 'Curved Ridge' as the icing on the cake. Tom wants to go back to the Buachaille to climb 'Agag's Grove'. Weather permitting, it will be on the agenda.

Slán go foill,
Columba