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MacGillicuddy’s Reeks – 25th August 2001 Columba McLaughlin Yes, we were bad boys. We sacrificed the club’s annual B-B-Q for a walk over MacGillicuddy’s Reeks in Kerry. However, what a walk it was. The reason, Noel wanted some practice before the ‘Glover Highlander Marathon’ in Donegal and as practice he had chosen to do MacGillicuddy’s Reeks. Anyway, after a long drive and two hours sleep, Noel and I (Columba) awakened at 5.30am. We had a brief scrub (well who was going to see us?), luke warm coffee and squashed sandwiches, we headed off and gained the summit of Cruach Mhór (932m, 3062ft) by 8.30am. Noel had opted for the direct ascent. Straight up the centre with some bouldering practice on the way. He took his ‘Bogman’s Friend’ (see Frankie’s definition) which helped him on some awkward areas. I took a more leisurely and relaxed approach to the ridge to the east and above Loch Coimín na Péiste. On the summit, I thought it an opportune moment to text my apology for non-attendance at the BBQ to the club secretary (The Hon. Pete). Anyway, while the view, in the early morning sun, towards Corrán Tuatháil and Ben Chaorách was stunning, the near hand view of the narrow ridge towards the Big Gun (see photo) soon got our adrenaline going. For those not in the know, and who need some directions, a brief description follows. The route from Cruach Mhór to the Big Gun is well defined – it is downhill in a Westerly direction. The fun begins at the col with a stiff, but not to be under-estimated, scramble up and over the pinnacles and the ridge to the Big Gun (939m, 3080ft). It is a brilliant scramble with some spectacular situations and definitely not for the faint-hearted. The final pinnacle is the best and after that it is a straightforward hands on saunter up to the summit. The descent to the col with Cnoc na Péiste is awkward and slabby. However, the ridge that follows is so narrow that it defies belief (see photo). Cowards that we were, we eventually came off and attempted a precarious route on the Coimín na Péiste side until an almost vertical drop barred our way. After carefully regaining the ridge, we then opted for the safer lower path on the ‘Black Valley’ (South) side of the ridge. From the summit of Cnoc na Péiste (988m, 3240ft), it was a straightforward walk to the end of MacGillicuddy’s reeks. On the way the mist rose up from the ‘Hag’s Glen’ and provided some stunning backdrops (see photo). The descent to ‘Christ’s Saddle’ at the top of the ‘Devil’s Ladder’ was ok but the long haul up to the summit of Corrán Tuatháil (1039m, 3414ft) was boring. Soon we were enjoying uninterrupted views of Catháir (1001m, 3284ft) (see photo) and Bínn Chaorách (1010m, 3314ft) (see photo). After a lengthy sojourn on the summit, we headed for the Corrán Tuatháil - Bínn Chaorách Ridge. This is some ridge with spectacular situations over the hanging valleys of Coimín Uachtarach and Coimín Láir to the south and Lough Coimín lochra on the Northern Side. The scrambling was brilliant with superb views of the rock and ice climb lines of the North Face of Corrán Tuatháil (see photo). Climbs that are identifiable from the right are: O’Shea’s Gully (I), Na Pagánaigh (III/IV), Central Gully (I), An Cág Cosdearg (IV), Curved Gully (II), Slí an Chrois (II), the Lick (III), An Cumar Chorráin (II), the Step (II), and of course on the extreme left hand ridge is the outline of the famous rock climb ‘Primroses’ (VS) or in winter (IV) (Irish Mountain Log 57). We had a well-earned rest on the summit of Bínn Chaorách and ten a scrambly down-climb on the Bínn Chaorách ridge to the summit of Stumpa an tSaimh. By this time we were tired and rather than rope up we opted to discontinue the ridge here and ended the day by descending from the ‘Stumpa’ by the ‘Green Gully’. Before long we were in ‘Kate Kearney’s’ for a well earned dinner, amber nectar, good music, company, and the best of cráic. There ye have it and fóill gó hiccup, Columba |