A Week in Scotland Rock Climbing

Monday (23rd April): Noel (Me Bro) and I (Columba McLaughlin) met at Glasgow airport early on Monday morning and then we drove up to Glencoe. In the Clachaig Inn we were informed about softening snow conditions and cornice collapse on Ben Nevis. Also, the snow around the base of Crowberry Tower on Curved Ridge of the Buachaille Etive Mór was suspect. Overall, the sun was supposed to shine until Thursday. After a feed we went on to Fortwilliam. After shopping and then booking in to the Glen Nevis Hostel, we headed up to the 'Wire Bridge' in the 'Steall Gorge'. It was good fun and as some authors say 'an adventure in itself'. Highly recommended to all. After a good dinner and a few swallies we retired to bed.

Tuesday (24th April): We awoke at 6am and the sun was splitting the rocks. However, such is my trust of the Ben's individual weather system, we prepared for full winter conditions (see promises made after the June 2000 report). We took the Meall an tSuidhe route and then traversed under the North Face cliffs of the Ben above the Alt a' Mhuillinn. The sun was still belting down and scorching the rocks. We had planned to climb either No 2 Gully, Tower Gully or Gardyloo Gully. However, at the CIC hut we met 2 guys setting out for No 2 Gully. Not wishing to be in the way of any ice or rock fall from this group, we had a break. The views of the whole North Face and particularly of Tower Ridge were spectacular.

However, scrutiny of the cornices on Gardyloo and Tower Gullies from low down in Observatory Gully showed them to be large, double and over hanging . I did not fancy trying to tunnel through possibly soft snow as this might invite a collapse and a very direct and bumpy descent from the summit over Tower Scoop' to the CIC hut far below. I also recalled reading somewhere that the 1st ascentionists spent 2 days tunnelling their way through the cornice (SMCJ 1905). Instead, we opted for the 'Grande Tour' and ascended the iced up 'Coire Leis'. The conditions were good and we did not bother with a rope. I used double axes on the way up (see photo) and Noel, traditionalist that he is, opted for old-fashioned step cutting (see photo). The cornice was not too big. However, it did overhang and was hollow. I cut through it onto the southern end of Carn Mor Dearg Aréte. Noel also had to cut his way out over the headwall (see photo). Then it was a long steep and snowy haul up the NE Ridge to the summit. For the first time ever I got the view from the top of Nevis to the Mamores and beyond (see photo). What a change it made from 'White Out' conditions in June 2000 and on numerous other visits. The snow was so deep that only the top of the 'Trig Point' was visible (see photo). There was no sign of the ruined observatory or the War Memorial. All were buried. The small shelter survived as it is on a high platform and was dug out (see photo). We had a long and interesting tour or the summit ridge. Closer inspection of tops of both 'Gardyloo' and 'Tower' Gullies showed that the cornices were massive (see photo) and we felt that we made a wise decision. Our descent was by 'Bum Glissade' down the 'Red Burn' to where it met the 'Tourist track'. Ice axes make great steering devices. Knackered but happy we returned to Glen Nevis.

Wednesday (25th April): This was a wet and miserable day. Light snow was forecast for above 3000 ft. We decided to ascend Aonach Mor and Aonach Beg via the Steall Gorge. The snow appeared at 2000 ft. There was no wind and the snowfall was vertical. My GPS lost contact with the satellites at about 3900 ft. Nonetheless, we managed to gain the ridge of Aonach Mor by careful compass and map work. Unfortunately, it was in whiteout condition (see photo). I carefully led along the ridge for about 20 minutes and then offered Noel the compass, the map and the lead. Noel went about 20 metres, could see nothing and decided in favour of a steak dinner, a log fire and a pint of the black stuff. We could not find the 'Cairn', (we heard later that there was only a few inches sticking out of the snow), so we decided to have a tea break and sat down for ½ hour. No change in weather conditions so we decided to head down. Big problem, all our footprints were obliterated in the whiteout. Careful compass and map work got us back to the Col with Aonach Beg and we picked up our footprints at about the 3500 ft mark. We were lucky and glad to get back to 'Glen Nevis'. Later we went to the Clachaig Inn for a feed and a heap of pints. As prearranged, we met Tom Massey and Colin Vose (Liverpool Branch of the CCC) there.

Thursday (26th April): It was Buachaille Etive Mór day. Curved Ridge was scheduled and seemed a good bet but locals warned that snow conditions around the base of 'Crowberry Tower' were soft. The sun shone even more today than it did on Tuesday. The guys opted for the traditional route up 'Coire na Tulaich' (see photo). There was still quite a lot of deep snow on it. Out came the axes and crampons and off we went. Tom and Colin opted for the rock ridge on the right of the Coire. The centre of Coire na Tulaich looked avalanche prone so Noel and I opted for a narrower gully to the right (see photo). About 15 ft from the top I opened up a deep crack right across the gully. It was time to exit and be quick about it. We eventually gained the Col via good ice axe holds in frozen turf and then up the rock ridge. A pleasant dander took us up to the summit ridge of the Buachaille (see photo). The views in all directions were brilliant. We then went across the Buachaille's full ridge to Stob na Doire, Stob Coire Altruim and on to Stob na Broige (see photo). The views from the summit of Stob na Broige over to the Bidean nam Bian massif were brilliant (see photo). Our descent (visible to Noel's left in photo) was a 150 metre 'Bum Glissade' (photo) down the snowfield of 'Coire Altrium' to where the stream exited the snowfield. Colin got a seriously wet arse but I was dry as I had kept on my waterproofs. We then had a rocky scramble down the side of the stream. On return to the cars, the weather forecast was good for Friday. We changed quickly and headed north to Kintail and the Cluanie Inn for a feed, pints and a local weather report on Skye. On arrival it seemed that Skye would be best left to Saturday. So we booked into the 'Ratagan Hostel' in the Bridge of Shiel. The view of the 'Five Sisters Ridge' from this location was stunning and enticing (see photo).

Friday (27th April): Up early and it was full speed to the Glen Shiel battle site. We ignored the path but took a steep beeline trudge up heather and boulder slopes to gain the ridge of the 'Five Sisters'. The weather was cloudy and snowfall was predicted. Anyway, Sgurr na Spainteach was a delightful ridge walk. However, what the guidebook does not tell you is that there is a sudden drop (30 ft approx) to the Col before Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe (see photo). It is easy to down climb it but in poor visibility it might be a different proposition. The pull up to Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe was in deep snow. On the summit of the recently promoted Sgurr na Carnach the view towards the 'Forcan Ridge' was misty but good (seephoto). All western descents were on steep snowfields, our crampons balled up and care was needed particularly on the descent of Sgurr Fhuran (see photo). Some precipices prevented a tempting bum glissade to the next col. Our axes were useful and prevented a few very direct descents. Being lower, there was very little snow on the 5th sister. However, it did have a very narrow and delightful ridge walk. On return to the hostel, the weather was giving showers and sunshine for Skye on Saturday. All voted for an early to bed and an early jaunt to Skye. I knew I needed my sleep and promptly did, Colin wished he had got more sleep and Noel and Tom had a few for the road until 3am.

Saturday (28th April): We got up at 6am, a good scratch, a quick breakfast and straight to Skye. As Glen Brittle was closed due to Foot and Mouth restrictions, we headed for Sgurr na Gillean from the Sligachan Hotel. It was great to be back in Skye again and the northern Cuillin (see photo) looked brilliant in the early morning light. Off we went into the showers and sunshine. There were superb views over to the Clach Glas Ridge and Bla Bheinn (see photo). We reminisced on our escapade there in March 2000. Anyway, we scrambled up over the boulders to the large snowfield below the South East Ridge. Fresh snow was falling at this level. Also, the snow covered the deep gaps between the boulders and much care was needed. Visibility was gradually reduced and you could just about make out Noel crossing the snowbed beneath the main ridge (see photo). The South East Ridge started off very loose and boulderly. However, it dramatically narrowed and steepened for the last 100 vertical feet (see photo). The fresh snow, which was all too soon turning to slush, played havoc with our grip. We eventually roped up (see photo). While the scrambling was very exposed and precipitous on both sides, it was absolutely exhilarating. There were at least 1000ft drops on each side of the ridge. After a few narrow and interesting chimneys, we made it on to the final few feet of the now VERY NARROW and very snowy summit ridge (see photo) and then the tiny (and I mean tiny) summit of Sgurr na Gillean (see photo). There was just about room to swing a cat but not 4 lads. It was misty and snowy and conditions were treacherous. Rather than continue on to Am Basteir by the west ridge, we decided to return by the SE Ridge. The SE ridge is described in guidebooks as the tourist route. Do not mistake this for the term 'Tourist Path'. Guidebooks also say that a rope may be useful. In these conditions it most definitely was. Also, I found that a No 2 wire was a very useful psychological aid on one particular overhanging and very precipitous section. As we left the summit, we met a group of English lads on their way up. They were roped up as well. In dry conditions this ridge would be an excellent and very exposed scramble, however under the present conditions we had to resort to abseil [photo] on one occasion. Unfortunately, to regain the rope I had to climb back up and then down climb it again. Nonetheless, we all enjoyed it immensely. The descent into clearer weather and Glen Sligachan was demanding but uneventful and soon we were having a steak dinner in the Bridge of Shiel. What a climax to a brilliant week.

Sunday (29th April): Up early and a long drive back to Glasgow with brilliant views of the Nevis and Aonach Mor Ranges, a stop in Glencoe to reminisce and watch some guys hang-gliding over the Buachaille Etive Mór. That was a busy week overall. All knackered out. We'll be back in Scotland on the 1st June 2001.

Regards, Columba McLaughlin