Climbing at Dunmore Head and the Controversial Route

Just when we thought the fun was over....
Alan Bradley and I (Pete Smith) set off on a beautiful sunny evening to climb at Galavoir Point near Culdaff. However, there were just the two of us and Alan reminded me that he had never been climbing before so I decided that Dunmore Head might be a better location. As we got changed a shockingly shaven Paul Dunlop turned up with Jason Frazer following. A treat must surely be in store with the maestro here, I said till mesell, and I was not disappointed.

I was getting roped up for Orange Blossom but Paul wasn't in a hanging around frame of mind so he soloed up his old access route (variously known as Ballerina and Variation of Circumstance) taking great care not to touch the holds on Orange Blossom or Cheating Bitch.
While I led Orange Blossom, Columba McLaughlin turned up and was introduced to all and sundry. Then Frasier led Wallrock Alterations E1 (click here for a pic of Frasier on this route last year) after Paul had soloed Grecian Gift VS 4c.

I led Peapob VS 4c, followed by Alan and Columba. I then spied a huge (and I mean enormous) new Camalot that Jason had purchased for use at Fairhead so I begged a lend and had a go at the notoriously awkward Beanbob VS. The friend, incredibly, was too big and I got tired, scared and sweaty. However, a bit of helpful, verbal encouragement from Paul was enough to get me up. He was leading Thank you and Goodbye E3 6a (?) at the time [pic] [pic]
Jason followed Paul, while Columba and Alan followed me. We got to the top and set off for the traditional descent routes while Paul downclimbed Calamity Collins HVS 5a.

The rest of the evening can be summarised fairly easily - Columba led Diversion HS while Paul soloed Shining Cossacks HVS 5a before downclimbing Ballerina/Variation of Circumstance (without touching Orange Blossom).

That was it!