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Pete
Smith 23rd March 2002 Brazil Rock at Bunagee, Culdaff, Donegal There were four of us and it was a lovely day, but I suppose I should say a bit more than that. Andy (Hard Scot) McInroy, James (_Psyclone) Boyle, Geoff (Taffy) Thomas and I set off from a sun-drenched Derry at lunchtime for a session at Brazil Rock in Culdaff. I was so excited I could hardly contain myself - partly because of the climbing, partly because _Psyke was coming and partly because we'd get to take Geoff for his first ever outing on real rock in Ireland. I was not disappointed. I took the pointy end first and led Geoff up The Hustler HS while _Psyke led Broadbinn's Emporium Sev. Then we consulted Andy's NEW guidebook and Geoff liked the look of Apex VS 4c. This route was led in 1995 by Paul Nelis and seconded by...guess who...P Smith. Well, well, well. I couldn't even remember where it started, and I am certain that it has never had a repeat ascent. This is a shame because it is not a bad line. Geoff breezed the exposed and awkward start and then shot up to the top. For me life was not so easy and I took a rest on one wire and a pull on another. I felt a bit better when Geoff voiced his opinion that it was a tad undergraded - he felt HVS 5a was more likely. We swapped partners then, because I was aching, and Geoff fancied a go at Bunratti Pillar HVS 5a. This three star route looked a bit too strenuous for me so I sloped off to lead Cap Gun Corner Sev. Geoff scooted up Bunratti in about 5 minutes flat and decided that it was easier than Apex - by my calculations that makes Apex a very stiff 4c! Andy led Expertise Sev - another route that sees little traffic. He enjoyed it, so it's worth adding to the list of standbys. Psyke led The Hustler after seconding Geoff on Bunratti Pillar. There were probably a few leads or seconds that I've missed, but that's the most of it. We stopped in McG's for a swift pint before going home to read the new guidebook and sink a wine or two. |