Climbing Trip in Scotland and Skye11-18th May, 2002. Columba McLaughlin Noel (me bro) and myself (Columba) spent 10 days in and on the Scottish Mountains in May 2002. During that time, Tom Massey and Colin Vose joined us. In brief, this is our report: Day 1: Noel awoke and decided that the Aonach Eagach Ridge in Glencoe would waken us up for the rest of the week. So away we went in brilliant sunshine. The down climb from Am Bodach was hairy. The real fun started from the summit of Meall Dearg. Some people who think they are funny call this mountain the hill of the brown underpants. In the next section, scrambling up and down the many chimneys was fun and the Crazy Pinnacles were narrow, airy and sometimes sharp. 
A careful descent is needed alongside Clachaig Gully. Day 2: We stayed in Glencoe and wanted a relaxing day, so we climbed the 'Curved Ridge' on Buachaille Etive Mor. The sun shone and we wore tee-shirts. I led the first pitch and Noel led the rest of the ridge . 
Agag's Groove on the Rannoch Wall had teams from top to bottom. 
We lazed about on top and descended Coire na Tulaich. Another brilliant day. Day 3: Drove to Fortwilliam and went up the Allt a' Mhuilin. We then ascended Carn Mor Dearg. By the time we reached the summit, the mist gave us limited visibility. Nonetheless, we scrambled over the misty Aréte to the Ben Nevis. 
We descended, using our crampons and ice axes into Coire Leis. Here we experienced a mini weather system that contained strong gusts of wind, rain and hail stones. Wet and bedraggled, we made our way down the Allt a' Mhuilin. Day 4: We drove to Skye and stayed in the Broadford YH. It was bucketing rain from the heavens. Day 5: We awoke early and headed for the Black Cullin and went up Coire Lagan to the Cioch. When we got to the base of the Cioch slab, it was very wet. Arrow route and Collie's long and winding route were off. So I led and we climbed the Cioch Slab Corner under the nose of the Cioch. 
This is a brilliant climb with a scorpion type sting in the tail. A must for all climbers who visit the Cuillin. Conditions were wet and misty and there was no view from the summit. However, for the armchair climber, there is a marvellous view of this rock in the film 'Highlander' and in the classic 'The Edge'. Later that evening Colin and Tom joined us in the Glenbrittle YH. Day 6: Up early and went for the Coire Lagan round. A very misty start. However, by the time we reached the Rotten Gully on the down climb from Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, the Inaccessible Pinnacle (In Pin) was starting to clear. For those not familiar with the In Pin, it is a narrow fin of rock and forms the summit of Sgurr Dearg. It is frequently described as 'having a steep drop on one side and an over hanging, steeper and even longer drop on the other side. The sight of the In Pin clearing hurried us up the ridge. On the previous Saturday, there was a 4 hour wait in a queue to climb it. Today, we had it to ourselves. We had good fun messing about with it but eventually we had to leave. Noel abseiled first 
and I went last 
We descended Coire na Banachdich to Glen Brittle. Another great day. Days 7 and 8: We spent the remaining 2 days completing previously missed out sections of the ridge. Whoever said that the summit ridge of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh was a walk, was being economical with the truth. Yes you can walk it, but as the wind was getting up when we crossed it, we hung on the to the 2 inch thick sloping summit ridge with our fingers. It was a long way down. The climb up Am Basteir was brilliant cráic. 
The bad step on the East ridge of Am Basteir created a minor hiccup on descent. A great week's cráic. Our next visit to Skye will involve the Pinnacle Ridge of Sgurr na Gillian, the Cioch again (it is that good) and Naismith's Route on the Bhaisteir Tooth. Regards, Columba |