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9th December 2001 - 'Curved Gully' (Columba
McLaughlin)
When we (Noel, Joe and myself) awoke, we had heads on us like turnips, parched lips and throats that felt like something had crawled in during the night and died. The cráic in Kate's the previous night was too good to miss and a hangover seemed like a minor irritation for such pleasure. Anyway, a wee dander up Curved Gully seemed like a good cure for it. By the time we had walked Cóm Caillé, we had sobered up. After a stiff and sometimes scrambly route up to Coimín Ioctharact, we had definitely wakened up. This is a magnificent route up to Corrán Tuathail and goes through three hanging valleys and some of Ireland's wildest scenery to Ireland's highest lake. On route, you pass under the steep cliffs of Corrán Tuathail's North Face. We reached Coimín Ioctharact easily enough and then headed South up to Nead an Fhiolair (Eagle's Nest). Then we headed towards the base of the cliffs and the start of the rock climb 'Primroses' (VS). From here we kept the higher ground above Coimín Ioctharact. However, below us there is a vague stoney path up through the cliffs into Coimín Lár. However, we opted to keep the higher ground and take a short gully high on the south side of the valley. This short gully is an appetiser for the main course ahead. In winter it provides a short but interesting Grade II/III ice climb. This gully also provides access to some of the more serious winter climbs on Corrán Tuatháil. Anyway, we dandered along the southern rim of Coimín Lár to the commencement of 'Curved Gully'. On the left-hand side at the head of Coimín Lár there are two gullies. The first is very wide and has a cave but the second one is narrower and has a waterfall. This narrower gully is the start of 'Curved Gully'. In summer it is a very popular way of climbing Corrán Tuatháil, but is very prone to stone-fall from parties higher up. In winter, it is a brilliant Grade II snow/ice climb. The upper section of 'Curved Gully' is visible in the centre to the left of Noel. The initial part of the gully, up the waterfall, provides an interesting route up into Coimín Uachtarach. This Ireland's highest hanging valley and contains the highest lake in Ireland. On obtaining the rim of 'Coimín Uachtarach, the gully swings around to the south and up the centre of the North East cliffs. At this point we were below the cliffs called 'The Grey Area' and I spied a well-known local climber (Con Ó Muircheartaigh) and his wife rock climbing on 'An Cág Cosdearg'. In winter this is a Grade IV (Snow & Ice climb). It was a pleasure watching them but they were too high for clear photos. The start of the 2nd pitch of Curved Gully is awkward and on a near smooth slab. Thereafter, with exception to one other awkward step higher up, it is a pleasant scramble that exits some 30 metres west of the summit. The summit was crowded and we went down by the 'Heavenly Gates' route across face of the East cliffs. Whilst down climbing from Coimín Ioctharact to Com Caillí, we were surprised to find that a friend from Galway had taken a fall and luckily had landed safely on a ledge. The alternative was a 300-metre drop to the valley. The moral here is that whilst this access route is easy enough, one has to treat it with respect. Nonetheless we all made it back for the usual cráic in Kate's. A great day and a brilliant weekend. There ye go, Columba |