Dunmore Head, Culdaff, Co. Donegal. 16th February 2002. Pete Smith.

What better to do on the first pleasant Saturday for weeks, than go to Culdaff and climb? Andy (Hard Scot) McInroy and the indomitable James (_Psyclone) Boyle left Derry at 10am (or a little after) and arrived in time to do two routes before I got there (at 12.30pm). Andy had led Belfast Blitz Boys V Diff and _Psyke had warmed up on Absent Friends V Diff. I put on two fleeces against the Wintry wind and prepared to join in the fun.

Disappointment is never on the menu when _Psyclone is climbing and I was tingling with excitement as he volunteered to lead Orange Blossom HS. To understand why people go to Grand Prix races and crowd around the most dangerous bends, one should take a few trips out with the Annagary Aerodynamo. It's not that one likes bloodshed and mayhem, or seeing people in mortal danger. No. No-one actually wants disaster to strike (though disaster is better enjoyed vicariously, of course). It's just that....well...it's a bit like betting 36 at roulette and biting one's lip while the wheel spins - it's not going to come up....it can't really come up....but it just....just might come up. Part of us wants it to come up but when it doesn't, it's a bit of a relief really.

So _Psyke set off up Orange Blossom with his customary taunt at the Gods of Fortune, "Looks like a piece of piss to me". I stood well back as I belayed...no point me getting hurt too. Andy got on an abseil rope with his camera ready to catch the action - a good fall makes a dramatic shot.

But _Psyke wasn't playing ball at all. He not only climbed the route with great aplomb, he disdained to mock us as we struggled up in our February-out-of-condition-style.

I led Diversion HS, and _Psyclone cruised his way up Cheating Bitch, including the physical layback start. Andy and I were suitably humble by this stage and were glad that the Great Man could not see our thrashing efforts on the first few awkward moves.

After this Andy had to go (he said he'd had a good time but needed to be home for a prior engagement). _Psyke and I continued, with me leading Bird's Nest Bulge Sev. He then wondered if he might try a little VS to wrap up the day, so we went round for a look at Peapob.

"No problem", said _Psyke, "I'll get up that". The familiar feeling came back, I said "You don't have to do it. Don't think I'm pushing you into it. We can do something else if you like." (Sub-text reads - "I'm exonerating myself in advance, here. I can always tell his mum that it wasn't my idea, I tried to dissuade him, he was a very headstrong young lad Mrs Boyle, that was always part of his charm" etc. etc). Then I noticed all his lovely shiny new friends and krabs, and I started thinking (ignobly) "they won't be much good to his family, they won't want to bury him with all that gear, I wonder what they will do with it?"

None of this was on _Psyclone's mind. I was still writing his obituary when he topped out and I snapped back to reality as he shouted down "I BREATHE STONE, er....is my bandana straight?"