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Loch Barra - Trip Report 6th April 2002

By Andy McInroy

It’s not often that I wet my pants before I even get to the crag. Pete Smith was obviously using the drive to Loch Barra as practice for the Donegal rally. James ‘Psyclone’ Boyle sat fearlessly in the front seat with the map and screamed out the gear changes. A daring overtaking manoeuvre later and we raced past Bill McGowans sporty roadster which unfortunately was to be later forced off the road by cattle. Frankie meanwhile had taken the sneaky back road and had time to set up an abseil rope from the top of the crag by the time we arrived.

Frankie and Pete went off to do some furtive routes round the back (more of this later) while Psyclone and myself geared up for Tarquins Groove (HS). This was a new route for both of us and I was relishing yet more life endangering epics with the master of disaster, oh yes. I’m always eager to get practice in holding factor two falls high up in the mountains.

Brave Sir Psyclone led us up and over the awkward 4b step to arrive at the bottom of the pockled corner and the start of the climb proper. I found the wall itself a bit of a tricky lead and suffered a bout of Elvis legs at the top of the steep corner. I retired to the safety of the holly tree above which I hid behind and refused to come out for some time. Meanwhile, Psyche [FAQ] got to work on the scary looking steep wall across the alcove which he led fearlessly as usual while I cowered in the undergrowth. I regained my composure for the next pitch which was a splendid crack leading easily to a big ledge below the overhang. At this point we were way behind time due to my disco legs episode and Psyches ciggie breaks. Perhaps Psyche should take up the pipe so he can smoke traditional style as he climbs (can you all imagine Psyche in a tweed bandanna emblazoned with the word “cockles”?). Anyway, Psyche pulled elegantly over the little bulge at the top and we climbed easily to the top.

As Pete was anxious to leave at 6pm sharp , we raced down the abseil rope and down to the car.
Two hours later and still no sign of Pete. Still round the back with Frankie? I’ll leave it here to let Pete pick up the story…… If Pete writes nothing here, I’ll leave it up to your imagination.