New Bouldering Area in the Bluestacks

Location:

New problems have been put up on various granite boulders strewn NW of the Glascarns Slabs and south of the Owengarve River north of the Bluestacks.

Access:  

Similar directions/access as for Glascarns Hill in the Donegal Rock Guide.

Problems:

At present a total of about ten problems have been put up on two main obvious boulders in the Polldoo glen, Echo Rock at GR993932 and Split Pea Rock at GR993927. The quality of the granite is sound, with good friction and good although sometimes boggy landings. The rock is mostly clean although a brush would be advised for some of the more sheltered problems.

Split Pea Rock at GR993927
       

2. Splitting Headaches B3 5c**. Climbs the overhanging wall on the far left side of the main boulder facing down the valley, see photo No.1. Really nice moves on really positive edges in a beautiful position.

3. Holey Cow B0: Climbs the easy slab next to the chimney, see topo.

Echo Rock  at GR993932

2. Barrys Backbone V2/3*. Takes the obvious left to right traverse along the top of the boulder finishing as for Split Arete. A cop out can be taken 2/3rds of the way along the traverse at an obvious jug at B2.

3. Floppy Traverse B1. Takes the obvious flakey crack, right to left, hardest at start.

4.  Nailgrinder B3 5c*. Takes the series of flakes and edges directly adjacent to the Floppy traverse. Nice moves

5. Big Als Airy Traverse B4 6a*. Climb the grove to a small ramp at the base of a steep arete. Move gingerly across rightwards on small crystals and smears to a better hold and eventually the top.

6. Nick Knack Padding Tact B2. Climbs the slab directly right of split arete without using the arete.