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New Routes Cruit Island Traderg wall
South facing wall on the northen end of Traderg Bay (GR 732212)
behind the thatched cottage development on Cruit's West facing side. Frankie
McCloskey, Martin McGuigan and co. have climbed various lines here already
(late route additions at the back of the new guide). Pete Cooper and myself
(Dave Millar) climbed another few lines on that good spell of weather in March.
- Mujahadeen HVS 5a *
D. Millar & P. Cooper March 2003. Follows an obvious rightward trending
flakey crack and wall above on the last main wall to the left of the descent
gully. Follow the crack and the step left onto face, continue to the top
using horizontal breaks.
- Mary's Route V.Diff
Martin & Mary McGuigan
- Strange Boat VS 4c *
P. Cooper & D. Millar March 2003. Start on sea ledge, move
up and right to the obvious flakey crack, follow this to where the crack
doglegs left. Step delicately onto slab above and continue upwards and
onwards with the aid of the horizontal breaks.
- Lust for oil VS 4c *
D. Millar & P. Cooper March 2003. Follows the obvious flakey crackline
on the bulbous face left of chimney sweep. Start on a sea ledge, step
up and left onto a good ledge. Follow the crackline to the top using brilliant
jams along the way.
- Chimney Sweep HS 4b
M. McGuigan & C. McGuigan April 2001.
Photos
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