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30th September 2000. Brian Martin and
Pete Smith at Bunagee
Pete Smith On the day known to everyone as "Alley alley-O Day", Brian and I set off for a hastily-scheduled afternoon's climbing at Culdaff. We decided that the delights of Dunmore Head in the sunshine were resistible, only because I've been there 74 times this year. So, Bunagee it was to be! I started off with a lead of Mad Dog McCloskey's Bawg in till the Oxtar, Sor VS 4c. This is a smashing route which deserves stars galore. I wish I could encourage more people to come and climb it because it's one of the best around. Next we traipsed over to Brazil Rock and I led The Hustler HS. This route never seems to get any easier for me. I took more than a few minutes working out the awkward moves in the middle, so I was not particularly chuffed when Brian floated up it as if it was a diff. I decided it was time he took the pointy end, so I showed him Capgun Corner, severe, and asked if he would like to lead it. He shot up it as quickly as I could feed the rope to him; another evil plan bites the dust! Following a break for sandwiches, we fixed up a top-rope on Bunratty Pillar HVS 5a (I don't know how this route is spelt, any more than I know how to climb it). With a lot of puffing and blowing and sweating, and a rope that was rather taut for a few seconds (!) I reached the top of this magnificent route. Brian was a bit out of practice for the technical traverse and lowered off. I'll make a prediction, though, he'll lead routes at least as hard as this next year. We needed to get to the top so that we could lift all the paraphernalia from the top rope, so I led Broadbins Emporium Sev, and we packed up and went to the pub. A nice end to a good afternoon on the rock. |