LogEntry: Errigal's Staircase (Easter Saturday 22nd April 2000)
Noel and myself had a spare day between Deirdre's and our Da's 80th birthday bashes so we went off to Errigal.
The sun was shining but there was a strong wind blowing from the South-West. Up we went by the normal South-East route. The wind lessened at Joey Glover's monument. We went on to the 2nd peak and Noel suggested that we go down the 'Great Gully' on the right-hand side of 'Tower Ridge'. Just past the rock-window we then went up the small gully to the col between the 1st Tower and the Staircase (2nd Tower). Every now and then a small gust of wind would come along but it did not seem too threatening. Anyway, the Staircase was dry and looked good. However, before climbing it, we wanted to abseil and do some cleaning on a future potential 2nd route to the right of the Staircase.
The territorial Ravens were not in their usual nesting site, so we scrambled down into the Raven's Gully, around the Staircase buttress and up to the 'Ramp' at the base of the Raven's buttress. We then scrambled up the ramp and around the left-hand side of a large boulder and set up 2 bombproof abseil points. From this view point you could see down most of 'The Shattered Chimney' (V.Diff) and it was so vegetated that I think you could set spuds in it. Anyway we done some cleaning on a potential 2nd route but some muck still remains in the lower section. After footering around with this cráic and the evening dragging on, we decided to go down the ramp to the col and climb the Staircase. However, Noel said that he wanted to abseil down and on to the 3rd Step (narrow, exposed and loose). While standing on the 3rd step, a gust of wind blew him off and he took a long horizontal swing to the right across the face of the buttress and out over the 'Raven's Gully'. As the large block ! forming the 4th step of the Staircase spoiled my view, I was totally oblivious to this incident. Noel got to the bottom safely and I unhitched the ropes took some basic gear and went down the Ramp. Noel was not amused. I asked him how far he swung out and he said that he was spinning so much he thinks he saw 3 eggs in the Raven's nest site (a good distance away). I laughed but he did not think it was funny. After gaining his composure, I led up the route and placed some gear in the 4th Step and then up over the block and scrambled up the 5th step to belay. Noel then, having regained his confidence climbed the route. When we previously climbed it in October 1999, it was very misty, we graded it as Severe (3c). However, we now think that it warrants a V.Diff grade. To confirm this, Noel decided to lead it. So we repeated the climb. On this occasion, Noel took a photograph when I was on the crux of the 4th step (see photo). He laughed this time, I didn't. He agreed that a V.Diff grading was suitable for the amount of exposure and the little actual rock-climbing. We then gathered up our gear and scrambled up the 3rd tower and back to good auld Buncrana for dinner and a heap of pints. Note: To make a day of it, the entire ridge is worth doing (see earlier report). However, do it on a fairly calm day. It might be better cráic in snow and ice conditions.
Slán go fóill Columba