Errigal by way of Tower Ridge (October 1999) [HomePage]
Tower Ridge (not to be confused with Dalkey's or Ben Nevis's Tower Ridges), is Errigal's very own prominent triple towered North-West ridge. When viewed from the Tourist Centre in Dunlewey it is the left-hand skyline. However, when viewed from the road between Dunlewey and Gortahork, the North-North-West (NNW) ridge is on the left skyline and Tower Ridge, is the prominent ridge to the right of the NNW Ridge. The "Great Gully" is between both ridges.
Alan Tees, Joey Glover and members of the North West Mountaineering Club climbed the ridge in the late 1970's. Their route included the first recorded rock climb on Errigal - The "Shattered Chimney" (V.Diff.). The "Staircase" (crux) was avoided on that occasion due to gale force winds. After dandering up to Errigal's summit we crossed to the 2nd peak and then scrambled down the left-hand side of the NNW Ridge with 'Tower Ridge' on our left. We then traversed over the "Great Gully" to below "The Rock Window". We viewed the 'Shattered Chimney' and it was very overgrown and in need of some serious gardening. Anyway, we scrambled up the short "Aidan's Gully" to the small narrow Col between "The 1st Tower" and the "The Staircase". We explored up as far as the 2nd step on the Staircase to check the condition of the narrow and difficult 3rd step. Then we had a tea break.
We put on harnesses and rock gear and took a 50m rope. We then stashed our backpacks and made our way down a small slope into the "Ravens' Nest" and its scree gully and then down to the bottom of 'Tower Ridge'. At its beginning, Tower Ridge's obstacles are not high and we decided to tackle each head on. However, some of the rock were greasy and at times incredibly loose and each hold had to be double-checked for strength and stability. Protection, at all times, was dubious. Nonetheless, each obstacle provided excellent bouldering problems and on occasion a short rock climb at V.Diff grade.
After 80m we met Martin McGuigan who had scrambled over from the NNW Ridge and we had a brief chat. Martin then went down towards Dunlewey and Noel and I scrambled up the next 50m to the Tower (the 1st tower). The base of the 1st tower was very vegetated in parts and very wet. Facing directly North-West, the sun had not managed to get around to dry it. Also, loose rocks were at times under the vegetation. One dislodged boulder tumbled all the way down to the heather at the bottom of the scree slope.
All of a sudden a mist came in from the North and visibility was reduced. I quickly went up a route some 5m left of the centre of the 1st Tower and then traversed diagonally some 15m to the West Side. Then belayed Noel up to a sloping grassy ledge. Although exposed and vegetated, the final 10m of the tower was thankfully much drier and easier going. We passed by the "Finger" and on to the top of the Tower. From the top of the 1st tower we viewed "The Staircase" through the mist. The Staircase forms the 2nd tower of the ridge. The view of this 35 metre steep curved narrow ridge is quite spectacular from the top of the 1st Tower. It has five steps, the first three with very loose rock before the block at the top. The third step is very narrow and difficult and has several loose rocks to negotiate. (Do not attempt this ridge in windy conditions). The crux move is the fourth step (a big block). The exposure into the "Great Gully" on the left and into the "Ravens' Nest" on the right is very immediate. The lack of protection, the narrowness of the ridge and the presence of loose rock all combined to increase the difficulty.
Overall, the Staircase would warrant a V.Diff grade and a rope is highly recommended. Falling here is not an option. As it was still misty, Noel decided to check out the steps on the ridge before giving his blessing to proceed (see photo). Following this, Noel belayed me up the steps to the base of the large block at the top. Gear placements are available in a high crack to the left and a small friend can be placed in a niche at about waist high on the left-hand side. (Be careful of 2 loose blocks beside this gear placement). Climbing the block reminded me of a cross between the crux on the 1st pitch on the Giant's Staircase in Dalkey and trying to hold onto a donkey's back [editor's note - most club members do not get on donkey's backs and would be happy to get off them].
Once on the small top ledge, a delicate exposed step around another block allowed me to scramble up the 5th and final step.(see photo) I then belayed Noel up to this higher ledge. (I think that this is the 1st recorded climb of the 'Staircase' and would appreciate informed comments). We crossed over the top of "The Ramp", which is the steep slope to the right at the top of the Staircase, and scrambled up the 3rd Tower onto the crest and the final part of the ridge. It was then a short walk to the Col with the NNW Ridge. A final scramble up to Errigal's lower second peak and across the one man's pass and up to Errigal's summit. After brief congratulations we headed down the South-East path looking forward to a welcome feed, a good few pints and a bit of diddlededee in Buncrana.
Slán go fóill,