April 28, 2000 Columba McLaughlin
Log Entry: 28th March - 2nd April 2000. Herewith is a our report on our wanderings in Scotland: Colin Vose and Tom Massey (Liverpool Branch of the CCC) and myself went to Skye. Our aim was to spend 3 days on the Cuillin Ridge. We wanted to enjoy its magic and not rush along it.
On Thursday 28th March it was very warm, sunny and we wore tee shirts up onto the Cuillin Ridge. We walked up from Glen Brittle and scrambled up through 'Choir a' Ghrunnda' to the lake below the Southern end of the ridge. Colin failed his navigation test as he got lost (well, we deliberately lost him) in the large rocks beside 'Loch Choir a' Ghrunnda'. After this hard slog Tom and myself had tea and sandwiches and we enjoyed the view of some of the best rock climbing cliffs in Britain on 'Sron na Ciche'. Then, we met a fellow wanderer who pointed out where Colin was.
Anyway, just for fun, we decided to scramble up the steep blocks on the northern side of 'Sgurr nam Eag'. However, Colin (having the lightest bag) managed to catch up with us. When we got to the ridge there was some deep snow on the eastern side but only a little on the western side. We headed south and traversed the ridge and up to the small (and I mean small) summit. We decided to check out our compasses (we had 3) and all of them gave different directions. None was right - so beware in heavy mist or a whiteout.
It was so warm and hot that we stayed and enjoyed the views all around (Frankie would have lost his rag with us by this time). We just drank in the scenery - it was absolutely brilliant. Descending the ridge to 'Casteal a' Gharbh Choire' was not easy as it involved scrambling down over large blocks on the left hand side. Also, there was a very steep drop off towards the 'Loch Coruisk' (eastern) side. We went around the 'Casteal' on its eastern side into deep snow. Colin fell in up to his waist and I laughed but then went down myself. Past the Casteal, we had a steep but easy scramble over large blocks up to the 'small' summit of 'Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn'. The views north of the ridge were brilliant. Again we drank in the scenery.
Then it was a descent down the eastern side to a narrow and exposed ridge to gain the Munro 'Sgurr Dubh Mor'. However, it is a hard and exposed scramble up to its (very small) summit. Nonetheless the views were brilliant -so we had a tea break (we're definitely not marathon mountain runners). A quick descent (near vertical) took us back down to the ridge and then up to Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn again. From there it was onwards north until we came to the T-D Gap. Unfortunately, one of our group had to borrow a knackered out harness (left his own at home) and did not feel happy at abseiling down the southern block of the T-D gap. So we descended onto the scree on the upper Choir a' Ghrunnda' and traversed up to the ridge between Sgurr Sgumain and Sgurr Alasdair. This ridge is really narrow with steep drops to both Choir Lagan and Choir a' Ghrunnda. I managed to spot a small narrow chimney that would help us gain the lip of Sgurr Alasdair's southern face. I climbed this and belayed Colin and then Tom up over the lip. From there it was a steep and exposed scramble to the (very small) summit of Sgurr Alasdair.
We descended a narrow arete to the col between Sgurr Alasdair and Sgurr Thearlaich and the head of the 'Great Stone Chute'. Confident that the next day was also going to be a cracker, we headed down the laboriously long scree slope to the campsite in Glen Brittle. Unfortunately, when we got up the next morning, there were weather warnings of heavy snow and possible blizzards above 3000ft. Nonetheless, we headed off to the Cullin again. However, when we got there it was not to be seen and worse was predicted. So we went off to climb Bla Bheinn instead. This is a separate Munro and is highly regarded for its 'Clach Glas Ridge'. We went up the Loch Slapin' side and skirted along the cliffs. However, the clouds were lower than predicted and as the walk was getting boring, Colin (navigating again) decided that the time was right to breach the cliffs. We followed suit and scrambled up over the rocks.
Tom eventually found a small breach (chimney) in the walls and after a mix of climbing and scrambling we found ourselves at the base of the Clach Glas Ridge. It was snowing at this time and the ridge was great. Before long we were on the summit and having the tea. We descended to the col between Bla Bheinn and its rival (not a Munro) top. A deep snow filled gully provided and speedy and precarious exit to the lower slopes and back to the glen.
On Saturday (1st April) the weather was worse. Blizzards were forecasted in the evening. So we decided to exit Skye in favour of the Glen Shiel. The Forcan Ridge onto the Saddle was off. Colin planned a new trip and he and Tom decided (I was driving) on a solitary Munro called 'A'Ghlas Bheinn' [Picture] in North Glen Shiel. On we went merrily chatting and found ourselves wandering along Glen Lichd (well I wasn't navigating), so 90 minutes there and 90 minutes back sure warmed us up for A'Ghlas Bheinn.
I had had enough of walking and demanded a tea break. Then we took the correct route and up we went. It is a long hard slog in dour weather along Bealach na Sroine (probably nicer in sunshine). We came to the col between Meall Dubh and A'Ghlas Bheinn and we turned southwards towards the snowy white peak. At about 400 feet below the summit, the blizzard struck and we had a not so easy scramble over fresh and deep snow to the summit. There was no view, just snowflakes but a great feeling. I did not fancy the return journey and opted for the more direct descent down the western rib. It was amazing walking out of a blizzard in clear air after dropping only a few hundred feet. We went back to the car, had the tea and the howling blizzard chased us through Glencoe over Rannock Moor to a well-earned steak and good few pints in Crianlarach. When we awoke next morning the white domes of Ben More and Stob Binnein were very tempting, however a traditional Sunday dinner was promised in Glasgow. My choice was easy. Overall, a great weekend with brilliant scrambling on Skye and good snow on the other peaks. We have a promise to keep for the T-D gap, Sgurr MhicCoinnich and the Inaccessible Pinnacle in the near future.
Bejabers, we all lived to tell the tale.
Slán go fóill, Columba