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Culdaff - 16th May 2000 The Colmcille Climbers Timetable stated that tonight we would be climbing at Crummies Bay. As it is rarely visited and somewhat prone to rockfall, Alan Tees wanted to check out the grades of a few routes for the new guide book. However, due to a pressing appointment with a bottle of grape-juice, Alan requested that we save the trip to Crummies for another day. Reluctantly, we decided to go to Culdaff. On a bright sunny Tuesday evening in the merry month of May, Pete Smith, Michael McGinty, Zoe Stephenson [pic], James Boyle and myself met at the layby and headed for the Bunagee area of Culdaff. Whilst Pete, Michael and Zoe teamed up and headed for the Himalayan Wall, James and myself headed across Pinnacle Bay to Brazil Rock. Michael led 'Carthage' (HS 4a) with Pete and Zoe seconding. Meanwhile I led 'Alhambra' (V.Diff.) the classic alpine type arete on Brazil Rock and James seconded. Pete led the classic 'Bawg in til the Oxter, Sor' (VS 4c) (see photo of an ascent last year). For those of you not used to Ulster-Scots language, see Frankie's rebuttals of those who would dare pronounce his climb wrongly (click here). In the meantime I led (one of my favourites) 'The Hustler' (HS 4b) (see photo) and James followed. James had been climbing with the club for quite a while, but he had no experience of leading. So we selected a typical Alan Tees route called 'Cap Gun Corner' (S 3c). Anyway, with fire in his belly, James led the route. However, after 30 minutes of typical climbing calls and no response from James, I tied off and went up the back to see what James was doing. There he was seated about 20 feet from the cliff edge wedged into a bombproof belay position. Not a bit of wonder he could not hear me (nor I him). After rearranging his belay, I climbed the route before it got dark. We then headed over to find Pete and Co. They we now just finishing climbing on the West Wall. Michael had led 'Glengad Girls' (HS 4b) and Pete then, in dark conditions and with no head torch, led 'Blondes have more fun' (VS 4c). Michael had good fun in the dark searching for the crystal pocket on the crux. Jason Frazer, Stewart Hamilton and Donna Ryan, who had been climbing on the Dunmore Head area of Culdaff, gave us a courtesy call. I believe that Jason led Fluid Inclusions (HVS 5a) with Donna seconding. As it was now getting really dark, we headed for McGrory's for some diddledee music, cráic and the usual lubrication. Slán go fóill, Columba (edited by Pete Smith) |