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Noel McLaughlin's Report on Dalkey
Quarry 4th March 2000
The sun was shining and Columba had come down to Dublin for the weekend. So, early in the morning off we went to Dalkey Quarry. It was a bit windy on the path between the upper and lower cliffs. The quarry was empty of other climbers so we had a wide choice before us. For those who have not been to Dalkey Quarry, there are over 250 climbs ranging from Easy to E6. The quality of the rock is good. We decided on the lower west quarry and promptly abseiled down the Mahjongg slab (picture). To warm up I led 'Gardner's Joy' but it is more like Farmers Gully. Columba then led the classic 'Paradise Lost' (V.Diff) and I then led 'Fragile' (HS 4b). Columba then led 'Levitation' (HS 4b) and then we had a tea break. Some more climbers had joined us and we watched 2 making a desperate bid on 'Gargoyle Groove' (HVS 5b) a mean finger climb to the right of 'The Green Fool' (E6). After the tea break, Columba led 'Mahjongg' (VS 4c). Two other climbers came to watch whilst Columba struggled with the crux on Mahjongg. One said 'that's a scary climb' so Columba placed 2 nuts in the thin crack above him before making the move over the lip and on to the crack itself and then off he went up the crack. It is worth noting that about halfway up Mahjongg there is a broken borehole. However, a size 2 friend placed side-on is welcome protection. Anyway, I could not retrieve the 2 nuts on the crux, so I abseiled down it again (well I like abseiling anyway). After this, I led 'F Route' (HS 4b) and then 'D Route' (S 4a). Then went over to do 'Paul's Edge' (HVS 5a). Unfortunately, it is also known as 'The Ankle Breaker' because of its awkward start. After looking up it and several attempts to start it, I decided that I would do it on a top rope. After this we went to the upper cliffs and Columba led 'Mitre' (VS 3c, 4c) and we then went back to Dublin for a curry and heap of pints |