Colmcille Climbers

I could not make the club's weekend camp at Malin Beg due to family commitments. However, the family commitments were in Dublin and Dalkey was scheduled for the Sunday.

When we arrived there the sun was shining and there were various climbing groups messing about in all areas of the quarry. Anyway, we headed for the lower west quarry to start the day with some of our favourite climbs. As usual I led 'Paradise Lost' (V.Diff). This is the classic climb in the quarry and a must try for those experiencing Dalkey for the first time. The crux is high up and involves an exposed step to the right from a large flake onto the thin crack.

Noel then, as usual, led 'Fragile' (HS 4b). The crux of this climb is high up as well and involves much smearing and tiny finger holds. After this, Noel broke the habit of a lifetime and did a clean lead of 'Levitation' (HS 4b). I, to the usual 'helpful' comments from Noel, had my usual fight with the crux of 'Mahjongg' (VS 4c) [picture] but made a clean lead of it.

We had a brief tea break before Noel led the 'Charlston' (S 3c) and followed this with a clean lead of the 'Charlston Direct' (VS 4c). After this I led 'Grave' (S 3c) a very narrow aréte on the left of the 'Pilaster' slab. After this, and as we had not done it for almost 18 months, I led 'West Wall' (V.Diff 3c). This route has a hard start and snorting is obligatory on the 1st mantle shelf. The mantle shelves are awkwardly angled and the climb zigzags and is very prone to rope drag. Anyway, I got to the top and just as I had finished setting up a belay, it bucketed down from the heavens. So I shouted to Noel to 'climb when ready'. However, I was the fool standing in the rain at the top of the cliff and Noel taking shelter under the cliff with a river running down the climb.

After the downpour, Noel being a purist by heart judged it as too unsafe to climb as described in the guidebook. Advice from a friend agreed with him but he offered to retrieve the gear by a different route. He tied on and when he got to the top he agreed that the initial assessment was right but he enjoyed his only climb of the day. After this we went to the East Quarry to climb 'Ivy Chimney' (S 5a). While it is only graded as Severe, it has two starts. One is graded as 5a and the other as 4c. Climbers are advised to attack the 5a start thuggishly and if successful the rest of the climb is pleasant. However, just as Noel was trying the 5a start, it bucketed down again. We took shelter under the overhang. In rain, there is only one climb that is available in the whole of the quarry and that is the 'Giant's Staircase' (S 3c). So to finish off the day, Noel made a clean lead of it. When we left the quarry, the heat of the sun was splitting the rocks. Back in Dublin and after a few pints and a good feed we reflected back and judged it as a good day's cráic.

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Slán go fóill, Columba