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Eglish Valley Wednesday 5th July
Al Millar Donna Ryan and I went to Outpost crag at Eglish [Eglish Pics]. We spent the day cleaning and I put up a climb called Happy arête VS 4c. On Friday we returned and in highly marginal conditions Donna led Postpartum VS 4c on the Outpost. I had cleaned two lines on the upper tier of the unexplored crag (Two Tiered Crag) to the right of Outpost crag and climbed the classic looking central feature of the crag. Beautiful Barry's Wrangler Jeans VS 5a and a line to the left, Wise Owl Soul E1 5a. Here are full descriptions of the routes. Happy Arete
** VS 4c 35m 5.7.00 A. Millar. D. Ryan. Takes the Arete just left of Deirdre
of the Sorrows. Start up vague groove to ledge just left of beginning
of D. of the S. Make committing moves up unlikely looking arête till
the obvious short crack feature above leads to a ledge. Follow corner/arete
to top. Two Tiered Crag A few hundred metres right of the Outpost
is Two Tiered Crag with a short steep lower tier and a longer slabby tier
above. The central portion of this upper teir provides an un-vegetated expanse
of rock about twenty five metres high and two fine climbs. 7.7.00 Beautiful
Barry's Wrangler Jeans ** VS 5a 35m A.Millar. D Ryan Takes the left trending
crack feature in the middle of the Upper tier. Start up obvious finger crack
that leads to left side of a ledge at 4m. Continue up crack till it peters
out and the feet are forced higher into it (Crux) so that a long reach to
a good hold on the left can be made. Continue to sloping ledge and follow
the crack up to the next ledge then continue up for ten meters over more broken
terrain to top. |