C O L M C I L L E

CLIMBERS

Eglish Valley Wednesday 5th July

Al Millar Donna Ryan and I went to Outpost crag at Eglish [Eglish Pics]. We spent the day cleaning and I put up a climb called Happy arête VS 4c. On Friday we returned and in highly marginal conditions Donna led Postpartum VS 4c on the Outpost. I had cleaned two lines on the upper tier of the unexplored crag (Two Tiered Crag) to the right of Outpost crag and climbed the classic looking central feature of the crag. Beautiful Barry's Wrangler Jeans VS 5a and a line to the left, Wise Owl Soul E1 5a.

Here are full descriptions of the routes. Happy Arete ** VS 4c 35m 5.7.00 A. Millar. D. Ryan. Takes the Arete just left of Deirdre of the Sorrows. Start up vague groove to ledge just left of beginning of D. of the S. Make committing moves up unlikely looking arête till the obvious short crack feature above leads to a ledge. Follow corner/arete to top.
Postpartum** VS 4c 35m 7.7.00 D. Ryan. A. Millar Just right of Desperate Dan McGrew is an obvious cleaned feature running the length of the crag. The initial corner becomes a slender ramp and culminates in a corner and short narrow wall/slab which is split by a crack on its right margin. Climb the initial corner (crux) to a ledge, step up and left to another ledge and the start of a slender ramp, follow this to the foot of the final corner which is climbed to the top using the crack on the right.

Two Tiered Crag A few hundred metres right of the Outpost is Two Tiered Crag with a short steep lower tier and a longer slabby tier above. The central portion of this upper teir provides an un-vegetated expanse of rock about twenty five metres high and two fine climbs. 7.7.00 Beautiful Barry's Wrangler Jeans ** VS 5a 35m A.Millar. D Ryan Takes the left trending crack feature in the middle of the Upper tier. Start up obvious finger crack that leads to left side of a ledge at 4m. Continue up crack till it peters out and the feet are forced higher into it (Crux) so that a long reach to a good hold on the left can be made. Continue to sloping ledge and follow the crack up to the next ledge then continue up for ten meters over more broken terrain to top.
Wise Owl Soul *** E1 5a A.Millar D. Ryan An excellent varied route. Start as for BBWJ, then from ledge at four metres traverse left across slab using under clings and make a thin move around onto large sloping ledge. Cross ledge to bottom of obvious fine corner 3m left of BBJW. Climb corner, getting slightly harder towards top. Finish over vegetated ledges as for BBJW.
[Another Report for Eglish]


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