Colmcille Climbers - Fairhead Weekend July 2000

Jason Frazer The club weekend went ahead as planned, a minority attended but the weather and high spirits were with us. Myself and Ian Chestnutt tackled Burnup HVS 5a,5a,5a, a classic 3 star route which is as good as Hell's Kitchen HVS. I led all the pitches and was excellently second by Ian. I think it's time Ian took the driving seat again, as he is more than able.
Ali and Mr Gigalow flew up some four pitch E1 (sounded like Am Balloch Ronda) and we found them basking in the sun with tired but satisfied grins. We also met Pete Smith and Anthony coming off Chieftain VS 4b 4b, Pete led both pitches, good stuff, but a clean pair of undies (of whatever fashion) was needed for the drive home. The presence of our Iron Woman was missed greatly but she is out due to injury, (Donna Ryan) a speedy recovery is wished upon her. So, another great day had at the Head.

Ronnie Smith Sorry to have missed Saturday, I'm afraid work put the proverbial spanner in the works. Anyway, Brian (Johnston) and I eventually made it midday Sunday. Weather was great and we managed a couple of routes. Unfortunately we didn't meet any other members as we decided to climb in the Grey Man's Path area and on leaving didn't see any cars in the other car park. We managed Burn Up HVS and Doldrum E1 (I just wish I had had the car jack & number 4.5/5 friend with me).

Martin McGuigan Started out bright and early on Saturday morning for Fairhead but did not arrive until 4pm due to a clutch cable which gave up. Dessie Mc Aleer; who fixed the cable for me; came with me and we did December 55m VS 4c 4c and that was with him wearing trainers, I led. Saturday night I went to the House of Mc Donnell and had a quiet drink and a chat with some of the natives and then spent the night up at the car park in the back of the car; estate car, not too bad. Sunday morning I climbed Girona, Chieftain and Hell's Kitchen on my own using a self belay on an abseil rope. Then Colleen and her friend arrived and we did some messing about just to give her friend a start. I also met Ian Chestnutt and we had a chat for a bit The weather was brilliant both days. Good week-end.

Anthony Feeney On Sat 29th July Pete Smith and myself (Anthony Feeney) headed for the formidable Fairhead. It was a gorgeous sunny day. The sun was splitting the pavement and my hangover was splitting my head - I can't remember ever climbing on Saturday morning without one. We met up at 11 o'clock but in order not to really split my head, a trip to Tiso's was called for to replace the helmet lost at Cruit - where Colm REALLY split his head. Enough splitting already!
We got to Fairhead after stopping for refreshments (currant buns!) and huffed and puffed across the clifftop - the wheeze of our lungs implying our superb physical shape. The weather couldn't have been nicer - you could see the Mull of Kintyre. However due to a fall at the Ozone, a near fall soon after and Colm's accident, I was feeling like a BGB (big girl's blouse). Pete wasn't much better, complaining that Fairhead was imposing, forbidding etc. Ideally we would have seconded routes all day, but there wasn't another being about. So we steeled ourselves to climb the scary heights of Bramble (Severe). We made it to the top without too much whimpering and headed off round the prow to look for company - Black Thief was too much too soon and we were all scared on our own. We had a great hike across the boulders but only spotted some cattle / sheep skeletons and a peregrine falcon. So back we went to Chieftain (VS 4b 4b) for my first multi-pitch. Pete tentatively offered to let me lead a pitch but it wasn't a cold day in hell, so he took on both. He had a little difficulty on the slab section until (wahey!) we heard the voices of Bill LeClerc-Gigot and Al Millar. The boys shouted up some encouragement (like "Just shimmy up the slab!") and Pete got to the belay point. Al and Bill headed for the Prow and I went to meet Pete. I reached the belay point eventually with some good advice from Pete - the slab section has a lovely move on a left hand layback with lots of smearing.
We prepared for the second section and Pete fairly flew up it - his confidence was flowing back now. I was a more nervous and unhooking myself from the wall to do the second pitch was a bit of a knee trembler. However, like Pete, once I got past the first move I was feeling much more confident. There's another lovely underhang, smearing move on this section and the exit is excellent - loadsa holds and sloping forward a little. Jason Frazier and Ian Chestnutt came marching over the cliffs just as we were wrapping up. They offered to let us second some routes with them but I was pumped and a pint of Guinness in Hunter's was more tempting! I nearly had a dip in the lake but the Guinness was calling. Note to all climbers : On a hot sunny day, especially if you have a hangover, pack more than 1.5 litres of water. We were rationing towards the end and the pint of ice water we had in Hunter's hissed on the way down!