Tuesday 2nd May 2000 .
Myself and Paul Stott went to Fair Head. Paul was working in the morning, so we didn't get away until after 1 o'clock. The weather was great in Derry and even in Ballycastle but a thick sea mist was covering Fair Head leaving it damp and there was a cold breeze blowing in off the sea.
We wanted to do Pyrrhic Victory but I didn't like the look of the start so we went over and Paul led Midnight Cruiser 36m. E1 5 b. Not being used to Fair Head-style climbing he had a hard enough time but got up OK. I got it tight too, seconding!
We decided to go over to do An Bealach Runda to get away from the breeze, but when we got that far we decided, as I had already done it, that we would do An Goban Saor E1 5a, 4c, 5b, so off went Paul to lead the first 5a pitch. (It goes without saying that I got Paul to lead the harder pitches!)
This Grade is a joke, the route is hard E2: the first pitch is sustained 5b, the second 4c pitch is as hard as any HVS that I have never led and the third pitch is a solid 36 metres of 5 b/c climbing. I think Paul used just about every bit of gear that he had on that pitch! The dampness didn't help either as the sea mist was depositing a dew on the rock and the breeze was cold. It was one of the toughest routes I've ever been involved in but it was a good day's crack anyway.
We got some fish and chips in Ballycastle on the way home and were back in time for supper. Keep her lit, Paul, you're as hard as a goat's knee!
Slan go foill,
Frankie.