Saturday 8th April 2000

Myself and yer wan from Cork went to Ailladee in the Burren, County Clare. I left Derry at 6am. I repeat 6:00am, not 12 midday. So I got to the Burren at around 11am and still had time to do a few routes. I led Genesis Hard-Severe 4 b I led Bonnain Bui ** VS 4c I led Lisdoonfarout Hard-Severe 4b. I led Ground Control * * HVS 5 a. I led onsight Pis Fhliuch * * * HVS 5 a. I led onsight Jug City * * VS 4c Here's another one of those boring Climbing reports again.

Monday 10th April 2000. Cork floats. Back to Ailladee. Bore bore bore bore. I led Black Magic * * * HVS 5a. Just one of the best routes I've ever done, with three bits of gear in the first 15 metres and a big fall if you get it wrong. Being over the Sea helps the crack as well. If you're ever in the Burren, do this one. Its feckin brilliant. Then I led on sight MoonRill * H S 4b. Although this climb is In two halfs with a big ledge in the middle, it is still, for its grade, a brilliant climb. It is very steep but with great holds, and it has a great atmosphere and exposure. (What a load of old shyto.) I led Nutrocker * HVS 5 a. This is a good corner climb but has not enough 5a climbing to make it worth doing. It's a bit of a problem rather than a route, as it is not sustained at the Grade. I bet you bastoods are all jealous now. I then led on sight Son of Sam HVS 5b (the grade for this one should be E1 5c) This is a fierce route - strenuous as bedamned, sor. We then went into Doolin for a spot of diddleedee and a few pints of Porter. It's a hard life!

Slan go foille

Frankie McCloskey

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