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Al Millar at Eglish Valley. Sunday 14th May 2000 [Picture] [MoreNewRoutes] Jason Frazer, Rodney and myself met Stuart Hamilton, straight from unknown camping adventures at Gortin. Six new routes were put up and for the record I include them with a list of all the routes put up by the "E" men in Eglish over the last while. I've written up my own routes and will leave the others to write their own descriptions and just give a vague idea. Glenbrittle Wall. An excellent wall a short walk up around to the left from Ceasefire wall. Although short, the climbs are sustained and of very good quality. The gear placements are often flared but adequate placements for small friends and Quadcams can be found with a bit of care. A Chap called Norman E1/2 5b? 9m ** 14.5.00 A Millar R.Moore A sustained little route taking the weakness a few meters left of Glenbrittle Cracks. The crux is probably reaching the obvious flared crack below the top and it takes a good 2 friend. Sensitive Crimes 11 m E2 5c? ** 4.5.00 A.Millar, S.Hamilton. Climbs the two vague lines of weakness right of Glenbrittle cracks. Start delicately rightwards along obvious weakness for the feet, then up past a surprising hold to a thin stance (and good gear in discontinuous left crack) Using holds in the left crack place a good double zero quadcam high in the right weakness or awkwardly place a poorish 2 friend high in the left. Commit yourself entirely to the right weakness and from a good starting hold climb it direct (crux) to good break a meter below the top. Move up, not without difficulty, to finish. Karma E1 5b? ** 11m S. Hamilton A. Millar. 4.5.00 A fine climb up the vague groove with good thin breaks on right side of the wall. Goey at the top, definitely so without a double zero quadcam. Ceasefire wall Un-named VS 5a S. Hamilton. 14.5.00 Short overhung groove on the left of ceasefire wall as it turns the corner up the gully. Farewell to my arms E3 5c *** 14m A.Millar R.Moore 4.5.00 A fine climb up the obvious steep left trending crack on the left side of ceasefire wall. After a few easier moves up the left side of the obvious small pedestal, commit yourself strenuously leftwards under the crack and struggle upwards on consistently poor jams but with brilliant friend placements till the jams improve towards the top. Un-named HVS 5a ** 15m R.Moore A Millar 14.5.00 Takes the obvious huge flakes in the middle of the wall. Trigger Finger VS 5a 8m A.Millar R.Moore 14.5.00 Climbs the lovely pink quartzy streak on the right side of ceasefire wall using ledge on the right. An easier start up the groove just right again is possible. A short but worthwhile climb on good solid rock Misty Mountain Hop HS 8 m J Frazer, S. Hamilton 14.5.00 Takes the groove right of gully/groove on right side of ceasefire wall. Another short but worthwhile climb. Lepor Knuckles S 7m J Frazer, S Hamilton, A.Millar. 15.5.00. The rock just right of Misty mountain hop. As a side note, Ray Dunlop was seen today in St Columb's park on the first day of the marathon training session that will return him to fitness after the completion of the epic programme of study that has rumoured to have left him (and Jeanette as well) in a near demented state. I have it from a good source that with running and visits to the wall everyday (easily affordable as an employee of the council) he will be ready for crag duty in six if not three weeks. EXTRA EXTRA. On the 14th May 2000 Rodney Moore, Stuart Hamilton , [Big] Ali Millar and myself [Jason Frazer] took a chance and headed to Eglish. Ceasefire wall was set upon with four new routes going up,ranging from S up to HVS. Ali put up some E1 further left on the next crag up.I put up a HS called Misty Mountain Hop seconded by Stuart .A great little hop up on to a good foot hold leading into a nice lay-backing crack.An awkward move left up and into the chimney to good holds and gear. Move on up to the Elephant's bum lay-backing the crack and using good footholds on the right , mantling up to the top. Found on the right hand side of Ceasefire wall. A 2 star route I've been told . After that just on the left , a fun S, called Leper's Knuckles, first ascent by myself and second by Stuart and top roped by Ali Millar. Follow obvious hold up the face finishing easily up top. At least 6m in height with Misty Mountain Hop being 10 m. Stuart and Rodney also put up a good route each, details to follow. |