Colmcille Climbers

Tuesday 9th May 2000. Bunagee, Culdaff.

Alan Tees and I (Pete) headed off to Culdaff to repeat some, almost, new routes (see report of first ascents). The weather had been perfect all day in Derry but a sea mist hung around the north coast making temperatures in Culdaff distinctly cool.

Alan led Bill's Polecat Retreat and made it look distinctly easier than VS 4c. However, I used a point of aid on the crux, which will amuse Bill no end. I reckon that the crack was too wide to jam in bare arms - I'll wear a fleece next time and get up it!

I then led Alan's HS Carthage which is a beautiful steep route on good holds. It combines a need for technique with a nice bit of hard work.

Alan dogged his way up Lutine Bell HVS 5a, which he put up a few weeks ago. I saved my good name by achieving a clean second. This route has a short, sharp crux section which is as good as anything at Culdaff. If you want to lead it, be prepared for a grunt, a sweat and an all-round hard time.

I led Himalayan Dream HS before we retired to McGrory's. Alan's mind was starting to wander and he couldn't bring himself to concentrate on belaying by this stage. At least those two holds at the bottom are really clean, aren't they Al?

Pete

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