Frankie McCloskey and myself went to Fair Head. On arrival we found ourselves to be the only climbers present, but not for long. Just as we were gearing up behind the welcome shelter of some boulders a couple, presumably from the Bangor area (you can tell by the marbles in the mouth) joined us at the top of the Ballycastle Descent Gully (East.)
Having descended, Frankie started to lead "Taoiseach"(69m VS 4c, 4c) and yes you've guessed it, of all the other routes they followed up after the first pitch. Fortunately both parties enjoyed this one star route despite the removal of some loose rock and some worried expressions from those below without helmets. After tea, we dandered over to Binnagapple and had a look at Orange Blossom Special (65m E1 4b, 5b) And decided to abort due to a lack of gardening tools and a "not very nice looking off width." Not much more luck on Sreang Scuab (45m E1 4b, 5b.) Very loose sizeable rock with a couple of big blocks held in place by a rock not much bigger than the size of your fist, very dangerous. Aborted!! We had to leave on a more positive note. Frankie led "December" (55m VS 4c, 4c) A very nice climb starting at the back of the cave going up 25m into daylight and the belay niche. Then 30m to a ledge, followed by a chimney and overhang with good holds. A good two star route.
Raymond Gallagher