Colmcille Climbers

GOOD PRACTICE GUIDE FOR CLIMBERS

Rock climbing and scrambling are activities that give us access to very special areas, often completely unaffected by human or grazing activities. With this access comes a responsibility to the environment, to other climbers and to residents of the local area. To ensure continued climbing we have to accept some guidelines for our activity.

As climbers we should:

- be properly equipped and fit for the routes we choose

- be aware of the potential hazards and know what to do if something goes wrong.

- be responsible for our actions.

In line with good practice in relation to access and conservation we should remember:

- to park safely, with particular regard for access to property, and be friendly to landowners

- to use approved access routes in areas where there are known problems

- that large numbers at certain cliffs can increase the impact on wildlife and detract from the climbing experience

- cliffs are a final refuge for plants and animals which have become very scarce, or even extinct, elsewhere

- the removal of vegetation including mosses and lichens (gardening) should be avoided wherever possible

- it’s often more pleasant to climb on dry, bare rock which normally has less botanical interest

- erosion can be caused by climbing on sandstone in wet conditions, or by using a wire brush for cleaning

- that damage can be caused by repeated top roping of routes (eg polishing of limestone)

- to avoid any form of chipping or defacement of the rock, never carve our name in the rock etc

- not to disturb nesting birds

- that abseiling down routes can be harmful to the rock, damage vegetation and inhibit other climbers

- if abseiling from trees is necessary, to use a rope protector, but even then our activity could kill the tree

- to avoid trampling of tree roots

- to take care not to damage fences, walls or hedges

- to leave no litter behind

Fixed equipment

For all established climbing areas in Ireland, bolting is not permitted. Bolts have been used in a handful of new climbing areas only (details of these crags can be obtained from the Irish Rock Climbing Committee -IRCC). Anyone considering placing new fixed equipment or replacing existing equipment should take careful account of local climbing ethics, the environmental sensitivity of the area and public safety factors. The use of cliff-top belay stakes should be kept to a minimum, especially in popular or scenic areas where walkers have access to cliff tops.

Advice for climbers developing new crags / doing new routes

New routing, cleaning and developing new crags can be a sensitive issue with landowners

Ask other climbers why the crag not been developed, find out if there is a local access problem etc

Is there a nature protection designation on the area, would climbing be harmful?

Get the landowners permission to climb, ensure gradual development rather than production-line new-routing

Consider the use of fixed equipment very carefully (see above)

Minimise damage to plants and trees and leave as few traces of your climbing as possible

Be careful about publicising the crag, can it take large numbers, could there be problems with access?

Restrictions

Climbers have a very good reputation for respecting restrictions. Thankfully few restrictions affect climbing in Ireland, but there are some (usually to protect nesting birds) and these are published by the MCI. It is vitally important to adhere to these restrictions, most will be seasonal but if they are ignored, more severe restrictions may be imposed by conservation bodies. If unsure contact the MCI / IRCC who have access reps with up-to-date local knowledge.

Interaction with the local community

We use the land of local communities where we climb, in return we should make an effort to contribute to that community. Put something back by using the local shops, stopping for a drink in the local pub, eating in a nearby restaurant, or staying in a B&B in the area. When local communities see some benefit from our activities we will be more welcome.

This document is not exhaustive, please adopt the spirit of these guidelines and apply it to your own activities.

Mountaineering Council of Ireland, February 2002.