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| Early on Saturday morning
13th Jan 2001, Columba McLaughlin and Phil(ip) Magill headed up to the
cliffs of Coire an t-Sneachda to
the north of Cairngorm (see Pic 1).
The temperature was somewhere near -4°C and a bitter wind sent spindrift
down through the coire. The omens looked good and we thought about potential
ice routes up the cliff face. On arrival at the foot of the cliff, we
were greeted with a mass of humanity all in various states of readiness
and fighting with the bitter wind and the spindrift. The last snow fall
was on the 10th Jan and the snow had not consolidated. There was no thaw
and therefore no refreeze. The underlying ice was basically covered with
a ten inch layer of frozen and powdery snow. Thus ice climbing conditions
were not ideal. Enquiries found that Glencoe and Creag Meagaidh were the
only places with good ice. Even the Ben was reported as being thin. Anyway,
we studied the cornices, they seemed unstable and had potential to avalanche.
This was why most climbers were staying clear of the central routes around
Aladdin's and the 'Fluted' buttresses. We also noticed that a large snow
slab had broken away to the left of 'Jacob's Ladder' and it too was ready
to avalanche. Our choices were minimal and climbers were queuing for the
only ice section with a cornice free exit (Patey's Route). While 'Aladdin's
Couloir' was a popular choice, there was no queue, so away we went. At
about half way up, Phil found an icy bit and made an attempt up it (see pic 2). However, after a few feet, the ice was too thin and also it
was dinner-plating. It was not too safe, so traversed rightwards towards
the neck of the couloir. |
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He
thought it would be good fun to leave Columba to retrieve the ice screws.
Without further ado we went on up couloir (see pics 3 & 4). At about 50 metres from the
summit, Columba suggested heading up to Aladdin's Seat and then taking a
very narrow gully to top out on the ridge. Up Phil went (see pic
5). After 10 metres, it got very steep and good ice axe placements in
the powdery snow were welcomed. Eventually a slab of frozen snow slid down
towards Columba. Good job his ice axes held brilliantly but the expletives
coming up from him did not sound too complimentary. Phil laughed and told
him to 'wind his neck in'. Eventually we both topped out (see pic
6). The sun shone, the sky was blue and vista was of snow covered mountains
for as far as the eye could see. We had a brief lunch and dandered up to
the summit of Cairngorm itself. During our brief spell up there, we witnessed
'Metal Mickey' coming out to measure the weather conditions. We took the
skiing route (without the skies) back to the carpark. However, Phil showed
the skiers how to descend the mountain without skies. The ski patrol where
not amused. |
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Early on Sunday morning to afternoon with
hangovers after catching up with a few old mates I hadn't seen in a long
time, we again headed up through Coire an t-Sneachda. The temperature
was about -3. There was no change in conditions from yesterday. Thus ice-climbing
conditions were still not ideal. We decided to do the Fiacaill Ridge (see pic 7). This offered an excellent alternative.
We traversed over the coire and up to the base of ridge. The whole mountain
rescue team was out practising in the brilliant sunshine and with the
second best looking border collie second to my own of course I have ever
seen. The view of Coire an t-Sneachda from the ridge was brilliant (see pic 1), the snow conditions on the lower slopes where very slabby,
but the top section was near perfect neve, it was that good I walked it
twice. We could make out numerous climbers on several routes. However,
the cornices still did not seem too safe to us. Nonetheless, we went on
and up and scrambled the ridge (see pic 8).
It had its hairy moments and some spectacular moments with climbers just
below on the 'Fiacaill Coulior' 'powdery pile of pooh' and 'Belhaven'
(see pic 9). All too shortly we reached
the summit and after a brief lunch we traversed the entertaining north
face of Cairngorm in a spindrift gale which looking back and reading the
following days avalanche reports was really a grade 3-4 wind slap slope,
ah well hindsight. Before long we were back in the car park and on our
way home. A good weekend's craic followed up with a 6 hr drive for me
which ,ended in a wee accident in fog a few miles from home, car and driver
doing well.
Report compiled by Columba 'The Fly'
McLaughlin and Phil 'Should be fitter for a man his age' Magill |
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