I have been inundated recently by 2 enquiries regarding the identification of rock climbs on Ramore Head. Guide book authors have dismissed Ramore Head as 'traditionally ungraded' which is doing this convenient little crag a disservice, particularly as it is the only climbing area between Fair Head and Donegal, and also the local crag of UUC climbers.

The location and grades of routes such as 'Strawberry Jam', 'Orange Peel', 'Constipated Donkey', are known only by few, but there are bound to be lots of other climbs done by both 'past' and 'still active' climbers which could be logged to provide at least a 'topo' for locals, students and visitors to the area.

Bill Magowan, a member of Colmcille Climbing Club, who lives locally, has provided this photo

with details of routes with which he is familiar, and he would like anyone to send by post (or email) any other routes (names, grades, perhaps descriptions) either drawn on the photo or identified in some other way. It is hoped that a final 'topo' may be published in a later Log. A new (huge) picture of the whole crag is available

There is also a more detailed picture of the cave area

His address is: 18 Swilly Drive, Portstewart, Co. Londonderry. BT55 7FJ
Email: bill.magowan@waterni.gov.uk

A = abseil ring
C = cave

Routes

1.Unnamed Sev 20m
cracks/grooves on right hand side of tower.
2. Constipated Donkey Diff 20m
Prominent cracks leading to chimney.
3. Unnamed MS 20m
Right angled corner with wide bridging higher up.
4. Unnamed VDiff 20m
Next right angled corner to ledge. Up right to finish on arête.
5. Unnamed Vdiff 20m
Right hand side of pillar with cracks above.
6. Death Wish VS 4c 20m
Climb arête, surmount overhang to gain unprotected upper wall.
7. Raspberry Jam HS 20m
Surmount initial bulge (crux) and continue up to corner, which is climbed.
8. Strawberry Jam VS4c 20m
Good climbing up next curving groove to the left. A bit sticky higher up.
9. Lemon Peel HVS5a 25m
Prominent line through overhangs just left of cave.
10. Orange Peel VS 4c 25m
Next prominent line left.