Rubonid Point.

Al Millar. September 2002.

Myself and Stuart Hamilton have been developing a bouldering area sporadically over the last year or so. It is at Rubonid Point, about half way between Culdaff and Kinnego Bay. I discovered the area years ago when I was doing a geological map of the area and we have done quite a few problems down at the Ocean wall area as well as at the obvious first lot of boulders and cragettes on the right. But now there are Eight routes there. Two put up by myself and Grimer years ago. Another two by Dave and Frazer and 4 more by Myself and Stuart.

Directions: About a mile from Culdaff out along the road to Tremone Bay take a turn to the left down along a road where you can see two new bungalows at the bottom. Park beside first Bungalow and follow mucky track to the left . Follow it almost to the end and head across fields veering leftward to obvious little heather covered headland. The crag is at the end of this and just follow the vague sheep path along the edge of the obvious bouldering area on the right side of the head. Clamber down from the right and find the short twenty meter high Rubonid wall with a flat wave cut platform underneath and shorter cliffs rising up each side.

There are four routes on Rubonid Wall.

Man Sick With Slide Flue E2 5C 20m
Climbs the thin little groove and Bulge towards the left side of the wave cut platform, fingering leftward along thin crack after Bulge.
N Grimes, A Millar 1989

Bongo Bingo VS 20m
A few metres right of Man Sick with Slide Flue is an obvious straight groove/flake feature ending at thin ledge at 15 m. Climb groove to flake, up that to ledge. Continue slightly rightward up crack and face to top.
Dave Millar Jason Frazer 31.3.02

Retro Route HVS 5A 20m
Right of Bongo Bingo is a narrow clean wall with a series of thin breaks moving diagonally across. Retro climbs the middle of the wall using breaks for good gear with a long reach to an obvious square hold comprising the crux. Continue up easier wall to top.
A Millar N Grimes 1989

Rumble in the Jungle HVS 5A 20m
Climbs the short overhanging groove feature (Strange looking fin of rock) on right side of narrow clean wall. Move left up wall to top.
Dave Millar Jason Frazer 31.3.02

Ocean Wall Area

Instead of clambering right down to Rubonid Wall continue leftwards round and down between outcrops until you come a 4 meter high stretch of rock facing the sea. This is the Ocean wall bouldering area. There is a narrow zawn ten metres right of the Ocean, bouldering area. Just behind the back of the Zawn is a little cragette with three obvious crack features a few metres apart from each other. It is only about seven meters high but the rock is so good and the cracks so fine looking that I include them. They also catch the last of the sun beautifully.

From left to right: The first is called Rum, and is VS 4b, the second is Sodomy and is HVS 5b, the third, The Lash takes an overhang and is HVS 5a. A traverse along a line of weakness that crosses all three was also climbed. Naval Tradition starts up Rum, then traverses right high along the obvious line of holds across the other two, finishing just right of The Lash. It is about VS.
A Millar S Hamilton 1.4.02